Review: "Iron Chef America" - Page 2

It would be difficult for Food Network and Fuji TV's "Iron Chef America" to compete with a production so wonderful - and, of course, it didn't come close.

But, surprisingly, its first episode turned out to be better than expected. "Culinary commentator" Alton Brown, known for his Food Network hit "Good Eats," knows his foodstuffs, and his breezy wit keeps the show moving; the pace is much improved over the sluggish "ICA" specials. The judges, most more food-savvy than the Japanese original's usual celebrity tasters (all love to Asako Kishi, a real culinary critic from the old show), offer fascinating commentary about the dishes being prepared. And the cooking action in the premiere, which featured classless culinary egomaniac Bobby Flay against noted Mexican-cuisine specialist Rick Bayless, was compelling.

Still, the new offering is no match for the classic "Iron Chef."

Let's start with the new "Chairman," martial-arts actor Mark Dacascos. Original host Kaga, viewers were told, was an eccentric gourmand who spent his massive inheritance to build a castle, create Kitchen Stadium, secretly choose four stoic and stalwart Iron Chefs, and conduct expensive culinary battles to defend the glory of his beloved Gourmet Academy, which he headed until his untimely death by fugu.

It was all a fiction, of course - Takeshi Kaga is an acclaimed and still-breathing actor - but lots of people believed it. In contrast, Dacascos is supposedly Kaga's nephew. Yeah, right. Okay. But it doesn't explain Dacascos' stated passion for all things culinary - one imagines the real reason is that the actor isn't getting many movie roles lately.

Really, I think the problem is summed up neatly in a clip featuring the new Chairman. The Japanese original started each episode with a shot of the handsome and enticing Kaga biting into a yellow pepper and grinning maniacally. The American offshoot has handsome-yet-dull Dacascos eschewing the pepper and biting instead into an apple. Where "Iron Chef" had edginess and potent attitude, "Iron Chef America" is comparatively bland and sweet.

Continued on the next page Page 1 — Page 2 — Page 3

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Article Author: Natalie Davis

Natalie Davis is an award-winning journalist, progressive- and GLBT-issues activist, musician and broadcaster. Davis' All Facts and Opinions - The Armchair Activist has existed since 1996. She is general manager and program/music director of Grateful …

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Article comments

  • 1 - Doc

    Jan 18, 2005 at 9:32 am

    The english dubbing in the original made it extra special too. The comments, the laughter and giggles put in along with the english translation heightened the sense of the unreal (and as the Saturday Night Live parody took advantage of). Even the 'celebrity' judges were quirky in their dress and a cranky fortune teller! Brilliant.

    I also loved when they'd have to haul some big live animal down and butcher it..call it cruel but having them fight with an octopus was gold. :)

  • 2 - Eric Olsen

    Jan 18, 2005 at 9:38 am

    thanks Nat, very interesting and well-done. I didn't know anything about this at all, and now I do!

  • 3 - Aaman

    Jan 18, 2005 at 10:10 am

    "If memory serves me correctly..." - nice use of the tag line from the original, and best, Iron Chef. My favorite was Sakai - when he lost, it would be a delight to see his face.

    And the imcomprehensible civility of the commentatora and judges made the original show, very popular on torrent sites, a grand entertainment.

  • 4 - Mark Saleski

    Jan 18, 2005 at 10:35 am

    who looks remarkably like Kaga's third Iron Chef Japanese

    uh, i think that's because he was kaga's iron chef japanese.

    could be wrong tho..

  • 5 - Natalie Davis

    Jan 18, 2005 at 1:38 pm

    Yes, Morimoto *was* Iron Chef Japanese III. That was supposed to be funny. I suppose not...

  • 6 - Mark Saleski

    Jan 18, 2005 at 1:42 pm

    sorry nat, i probably shouldn't ready anything in the morning before the first coffee.

  • 7 - Natalie Davis

    Jan 18, 2005 at 1:42 pm

    Sakai is my favorite too, though I can't help but be intrigued by cuddly -- and tougher than he appears -- Chen too. And Michiba is the man.

  • 8 - Dennis Grace

    Jan 25, 2005 at 12:41 pm

    Write the Iron Chef America people and tell them where they're screwing this up. See my latest entry at http://verbshark.blogspot.com/ for directions.

  • 9 - Temple Stark

    Jan 25, 2005 at 3:39 pm

    Natalie,

    I hoisted this onto Advance.net for TV

    Link here

    I was hungry before now .....

    - temple

  • 10 - Natalie Davis

    Jan 26, 2005 at 11:42 pm

    Thanks for the suggestion, Mr. Grace, but I have written to TPTB at FTV a number of times. Deaf ears...

    Thanks, Mr. Stark!

  • 11 - Liam Pomfret

    Jun 11, 2005 at 12:18 am

    I realise I'm coming in months late here, but for the record....Mark_Dacascos *is* the nephew of Takeshi Kaga in real life. His birthmother Moriko McVey is Takeshi-san's sister.

  • 12 - Natalie Davis

    Jun 11, 2005 at 1:25 am

    For the record? That's hilarious.

    Based on what evidence? Sorry, Internet speculations or assertions don't count as fact. I require at least two credible and authoritative sources before I will believe that. And IMDB doesn't count.

    At this point, I won't buy it until Kaga-san himself verifies it. And -- sigh -- I hope he does... in person...

  • 13 - Stephen

    Dec 27, 2006 at 9:52 pm

    I get ill listening to the food critics in particular the fat Bakoum Bafoon... she has got to go,

  • 14 - Robert S. Young

    Aug 16, 2007 at 10:55 pm

    I just wanted to make a comment about the Iron Chef Challenge where one of the iron chefs engages in a cook-off against a chef who is not part of the "realm" so to speak.

    I believe everytime I've watched this competition, the Iron Chef comes out on top. That becomes somewhat boring. I think it would be more of a challenge if the "cook-off" were to be held somewhere other than the "home field" of the iron chefs and if, also, some sincere respect were given to the challengers experience. They always seem to be subtly portrayed as "wannabe underdogs." Because of this the judges are "unimpressed" before they even taste the challengers creations. I've noted that sometimes food-channel chefs are among the judges. That's incredibly unthinking and just unacceptable.

    The only reason I have any respect for this concept, is because on another show Bobby Flay DOES go to meet his challengers on their turf - the result is somestimes he wins and sometimes he loses. The resolution of an unknown outcome is good.

    The rron chef challenge in the iron chef kitchen is just plain unfair and uninteresting because of the built in advantages/biases afforded to those who are part of the "realm" by the location and by "underwhelming" introductions given the other chefs that paves the way for the so-called objective judges to immediately dismiss any notion that they are worthy adversaries with the skill and ability to win. The judges appear to just see them as forgettable "unaccomplished cooks" from the hinterland who should be glad they were invited by the vaunted iron chef gang.

    Level the field. If not, just can the show. My view is it isn't accomplishing anything accept creating an unwarranted deep divide between the iron chefs and everybody else who cooks food for a living.

    Robert

  • 15 - Robert S. Young

    Aug 16, 2007 at 10:57 pm

    I just wanted to make a comment about the Iron Chef Challenge where one of th iron chefs engages in a cook-off against a chef who is not part of the "rewalm" so to speak.

    I believe everytime I've watched this competition, the Iron Chef comes out on top. That gets boring. I think it would be more of a challenge if the "cook-off" were to be held somewhere other than the "home field" of the iron chef and if, also, so sincere respect were given to the challengers experience. They always seem to be subtly portrayed as "wannabe underdogs." Because of this the judges are "unimpressed" before they even taste the challengers creations. I've note that sometimes food-channel chefs are among the judges. It's just unacceptable.

    The only reason I have any respect for this concept, is because Bobby Flay DOES go to meet his challengers on their turf - somestimes he wins, sometimes he doesn't. The resolution of that unknown outcome is interesting.

    The Iron Chef Challenge in the Iron Chef Kitchen is just unfair and uninteresting because of the built in advantages/biases afforded by the location and by "underwhelming" introductions given the other chefs that paves the way for the so-called objective judges to immediately dismiss any notion that they are worthy adversaries with the skeill and ability to win. No, the judges appear to just see them as "unaccomplished cooks" from the hinterland who should be glad they were invited by the vaunted iron chef gang.

    Level the field.

    Robert

  • 16 - wesley

    Feb 21, 2010 at 10:40 pm

    I love the show, I am a cook ,not a chef, but I do cook for celebs,
    Everyone on the show does their part and its enjoyable, but PLEASE, either give the chairman new lines or just get rid of him. Here's an idea, use a celeb each week, you can afford it.
    I cringe knowing exactly whats going to come out of his mouth, a robot could do a better job, he is an embarrassment to the show,with his, arm gestures and same lines, do something about him pleaseeeeee, i fast forward when he is on.. he is just an idiot..

  • 17 - AS

    Jul 13, 2010 at 1:46 pm

    I saw a recent episode of Iron Chef America on Food Network with Symon and a Japanese chef. I could not believe that the judges were literally licking Simon's feet. Even Symon seemed surprised that he won the competition - battle of sea urchins. I can't speak for the taste but surely the Japanese chef reigned supreme in PRESENTATION (Come on everyone knows most Japanese give a lot of importance to the details and this chef was no different). If this is truly to be an unbiased show - make it like Bobby Flay's throwdown where the judges do a blind taste of the competitors food.

  • 18 - elroy

    Nov 12, 2011 at 8:43 pm

    this show is terrible-a tense filled hour
    with the clock ticking and a narrator
    as people rush to cook a dish
    Cooking is supposed to be enjoyable and
    relaxing- not a kitchen full of hyper
    nerve racking clock ticking tense chefs-whats to watch? the clock? how stupid

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