"Free wine!" you might think, driving up to the tasting room of a winery in Napa, Sonoma, the San Ynez Valley, or even Long Island. You might have been correct in the seventies and eighties before Americans discovered the French Paradox, the film Sideways, and developed a more sophisticated palate.
"Many people never had a glass of wine until they walked into this restaurant," Charlie Palmer told me just after the opening of Aureole in Las Vegas with its gigantic glass wine tower, designed by Architect Adam Tihany after watching Tom Cruise in the film Mission Impossible. That was in 1999.
Now that wine has entered pop culture and visiting tasting rooms are considered a cool weekend activity, winemakers no longer have to give away free samples to attract potential customers. Yet many visitors resent what they feel are nickel-and-dime tactics on the part of wineries. Veronica Barclay conducted an interesting survey for Wine Business Monthly on the subject in which they surveyed many wineries about what they charge, what the patron gets for his money, and their rationale for it.
According to the survey, most wineries don't charge per taste of an individual wine, but offer a menu that includes a tasting of three, five, or more wines at a price ranging between $5-20. Some wineries offer "estate tasting" by appointment, which includes library wines paired with food made by in-house chefs.
From the winery's point of view, the reasons for charging per taste are quite valid. One of the most important reasons cted is that charging for wine calls for a level of restraint and helps patrons avoid driving under the influence. A second reason has to do with showcasing the wine in the best light - the so-called Tiffany approach in which diamonds are carefully placed on a black velvet display by a pair of exceedingly manicured hands so the potential buyer can get a sense of their value.
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Article comments
1 - Joe Becerra
The best tasting room policy is when the fee can be applied to the purchase of wine. This is a "Win-Win" situation for both the winery and the visitor to the tasting room. I am surprised at how few wineries have adopted this type of tasting fee.
2 - marisa d'vari
You are so right! Recently, I was at a unique wine shop that "rewarded" shoppers in two ways: 1) when they bought more than 12 bottles, they got a HUGE discount on every bottle and they didn't all have to be the same wine. 2) they received "points" they could use for tastings. Sweet!
3 - Phillip Winn
World Market was recently offering a big discount for purchases of four or more bottles (matching or not). I should have jumped on it!
I think the problem is that vintners are not economists, and some are lying. Yes, it's a good idea to charge *something*, to screen out the freeloaders and so on. But some of them are using that excuse but then charging enough to more than cover their costs. They've turned a marketing expense into a profit center, and aren't being up-front about it.
To achieve the benefits they're claiming, they wouldn't have to charge much at all. Freeloaders tend to be freeloaders, not cheaploaders, so charging even very little would accomplish the same thing. Applying the cost of the tasting as a credit toward purchases that same day is another brilliant move that more wineries ought to try.
Great article, thanks!
4 - marisa d'vari
Thanks Phillip, appreciate your wise comment!
5 - Sarah
I've been wine tasting for the past 20+ years, ever since my parents introduced me to wine when I came of age. I can understand when a fee is charged for tasting at a festival, where there may be a large crowd, and the winery has little control over how much people drink. But quite frankly, I think the practice of charging at the winery is just plain greed, and is an insult to the customer. The winery should take care to make sure that the staff offering the tasting is well versed, well paid, and well capable of distiguishing between a sober customer and an intoxicated one. If they can't do that, they don't have any business offering wine to taste - paid or not.
6 - marisa d'vari
Thanks Sarah, good point! In today's NYT there is an article about this ... I referenced it at my blog here
7 - John A
I live near a college town and have noticed the one winery that does charge 5 bucks doesnt have as many freeloaders. Talking to the staff, they claim its not because they can't tell if someone is drunk,.. It's just cheaper for teh student to walk down the street and buy a 6 pack than to pay 5$ and get 5 ounces of wine. The winery does discount that 5$ off of your purchase of a bottle though.
8 - Pcogdill
I and a group of Pathologists were staying at The Meritage for a conference. We decided to rent a limo to do some wine tasting on Sunday. When we arrived at Mumm, we were treated very badly. They literally told us we were not welcome because we arrived in a limo. The lady in charge said she had no seating. I looked around and there were plenty of seats! She was a liar. She said there was a no limo sign up on Sunday, but we did not see it. What is wrong with telling us nicely that limos are not allowed. This winery must have lots of money and really do not care about selling their products or treating guests decently! I would definitely skip this winery. There are lots of other wineries that are very hospitable. Not of us will ever by their products again!!