“Is Israel a new world wine region or an old world wine region?” asks a guest attending the first ever Wines of Israel Grand Tasting in New York City. We are seated in the luxurious Prince George Ballroom in midtown.
Good question. If you are in the wine world, you have probably heard the words “old world” and “new world’ to describe two very different styles of wine. “Old World” wine is mostly Western European and Central European - from countries that have been making wine for hundreds of years. “New World” wine is from California, Chile, Argentina, South Africa, Australia, and New Zealand - countries that pretty much had their start less than 300 years ago.
So, where does Israel fit in? Though Israel is one of the cradles of civilization and its people have been making wine for thousands of years, it really wasn’t until the 19th century that “modern” wineries were developed.
According to the seminar led by Mark Squires, Wine Critic for Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate, as well as material produced from the Government of Israel, the country’s wine industry has recently undergone a technological revolution. The winemaking revolution began in the 1980s as a product of the inspiration of pioneering wineries and vintners.
Quality grape varieties were planted in new, higher altitudes and cooler vineyards. Note for new fans of wine: the higher, cooler regions help the grapes avoid “sunburn” and keep acidity.
According to government figures, there are now over 200 wineries in Israel. Five large wineries produce over a million bottles a year: Carmel, Barkan, Golan Heights, Teperberg, and Binyamina. I stopped by the Binyamina table thinking it smart to try one of the largest, oldest wineries first.
According to the men behind the table, the winery was established in 1952. I thought the wines good; a favorite white was the oaked 2005 Chosen Onyx Chardonnay from the Judean Hills. The wine reflected good fruit, nice balance, and judicious use of oak. The price? $45. According to some of the notes of Mr. Squires’ talk, one of the many challenges facing Israeli wine is the high price - a reflection of many factors, including expenses relating to exportation.
Article comments
1 - Wine Tasting Guy
Great review. I'm happy to hear of your positive experience and thrilled to read about how much you enjoyed the wines you tasted.
Regarding price, the high prices of some Israeli wine is certainly an issue - but isn't price a relative item? You mention the expensive Northern Rhone lovers; they must be spending well in excess of $30-40 for some of those Rhone wines. And while $30-40 IS certainly not cheap, it is RELATIVELY cheap when compared with other wines.
Speaking of price, The Yarden El Rom single vineyard, although hard to find at this point, generally retails at closer to $50 (still expensive but not $75), while the Yarden Cabernet '04 that you enjoyed is a $25-30 wine. For a wine that made Wine Spectators top 100 list I'd say that is a good deal.
Thanks again for your fabulous review of the tasting event!
2 - barbara barnett
I attend a lot of Jewish functions that use high-end caterers, etc, and I have learned that Kosher wines are much more diverse and excellent than the stereotypical"Maneshevitz Concord Grape" I've learned a lot and really enjoy the syrahs (especially) I've tasted from Israel. I'm not a wine connoisseur, but I have my favorites among varietals. I've really been pleased that Israel has over the past several years produced quality wines (kosher) that can compete with non-kosher varieties.
3 - Ruvy
Interesting read....
I've become more interested in wine since my heart attack. My doctor prescribed a glass of wine each night.
But your article focused on Israeli wines exported, and well, I live in the country. So, whether a wine costs $10, $15, $40 or $55 is somewhat of an irrelevancy to me. Just for your general knowledge, a bottle of sweet Sabbath wine usually costs about New Israeli Shekels 16 (about $4), and the better wines at the supermarket (you can buy wine and vodka in a supermarket here) usually cost anywhere from NIS 20 to NIS 100 ($5 to $25) with a lot of them costing about NIS 70 ($17.50).
There are many Frenchmen who have come here and have become small vintners in the mountains of Samaria and Judea. We drink these wines - partly because they are the local product, and we want to support our neighbors, partly because they taste good, and mostly because we drink wine for the Sabbath and for festivals. And for me, there also that "prescription" from the cardiologist.
So, bir'shút maranán, rabotái v'g'vurotái: l'Háim!
4 - Dr Dreadful
"...Something like a very fresh, ripe raspberry or tiny sweet framboise."
Ahem...