Raise your wine glass if you think Gallo represents California wines. Now put it down – the Gallo family has long gone global, and now is focused on creating affordable, well-crafted “local wines from around the world.” I was lucky enough to attend a recent tasting at Manhattan’s fashionable Eleven Madison Park, where journalists could sample several international wines in Gallo’s collection.
The first one we tried was Bodegas Martin Codax Albarino 2008. The winery was founded in 1986 as a cooperative made up of about 50 local grape growers in Galicia, Spain. Gallo helped the winery grow while improving the quality, and today the wines have won international awards and are for sale in 40 countries around the world. I buy this wine, and it’s a good value with its slight aroma of peach and pear and sharp acidity on the palate. What’s interesting is that it is grown on a “pergola” trellis system to keep the grapes off the damp ground (it rains a lot in Galicia).
Next up was the Frei Brothers Reserve Wines, an excellent 2007 Chardonnay with a buttery, oaky nose and palate. In a story that could be called “it’s never too late,” the original Frei Winery had been conceived by 70-year old ex-miner Charles Dunz, who developed the land, planted vines, and sold it to original owner Andrew Frei. E & J Gallo Winery bought the Frei Brothers winery in 1978. I detected some red apple on the nose, which the winemaker described as “Gravenstein apple.” Curious as to what this would smell/taste like, I consulted a dictionary, which says that this apple is considered to be one of the best all-around apples, with a sweet, tart flavor. Next time I have the opportunity I’ll have to locate this apple, buy the wine, and see for sure.
MacMurray Ranch Pinot Noir is another Gallo holding, with the winery located in Healdsburg’s Russian River Valley. The land was originally owned by Col. Hugh Porter, veteran of the Mexican War, who used it as a cattle ranch. The Gallo family bought the ranch in 1996 and planted Pinot Noir, followed by other varietals. The PN 2007 has a sweet cherry nose with a hint of smoke, and a long finish filled with black cherries and blackberries.
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