Tasting the Gaglioppo Grape of Calabria - Page 2

So with this distinctive cherry aroma and character on the palate defining the majority of these red wines from Calabria, I’d say the major differences among them are the time and manner they spend in oak, the vintage (the 2004s were distinct from the 2005s and obviously the fruity young 2008), and the other grapes included if in a blend.

Statti Calabria IGT 2008 was an unoaked wine that had the nose and palate of cherry candy, fresh and fruity. The wine was 100% Gaglioppo in all its tart glory. Next in the journey toward complexity was the Librandi Ciro Rosso Riserva DOC, Duca San Felice 2005, with a candy nose and sour cherry fruit on the palate with a hint of anise. Ippolito 1845 Ciro Rosso Classico Superiore Riserva DOC Colli del Mancuso 2005 followed, with refreshingly high acidity and notable oak along with the theme of sour cherry.

Val di Neto Melissa Rosso Superiore DOC Mutro 2004 was a well-rounded wine; the 24 months of aging in stainless steel tanks and barriques followed by six months in bottle really did magic. Fattoria San Francesco Ciro Rosso Classico DOC Ronco dei Quattro Venti 2005 was 100% Gaglioppo and quite rich, having aged 12-13 months In French barriques. Tenuta Iuzzolini Ciro Rosso Classico Superiore Riserva DOC Maradea 2004 is aged for 8-10 months in barrique and another four months in bottles at controlled temperature, resulting in a very opulent and expressive wine.

Odoardi Scavigna DOC Vigna Garrone 2004 is interesting because of the adventurous blend: imagine 80% of the strong, somewhat rustic Gaglioppo grape with its pronounced cherry/raspberry accents blended with 10% Nerello Cappuccio, and 10% international varieties: 5% Cabernet Franc, 3% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 2% Merlot.

The last wine, Terre di Balbia Calabria IGT SerraMonte 2005, was a blend of Gaglioppo, Magliocco, and Sangiovese that spends 18 months in barrique after malolactic fermentation, followed by 12 months in bottle. At $59, it was one of the most expensive and complex of the wines from Calabria we sampled.

All in all, it was a fantastic opportunity to taste this grape and, for an afternoon at least, experience the bounty of Calabria.

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Article comments

  • 1 - GeC

    Jun 01, 2009 at 6:57 am

    Actually the name of the movie is Nights of CABIRIA and takes place in Rome not in Calabria!

  • 2 - roger nowosielski

    Jun 01, 2009 at 7:00 am

    The editor must have been asleep. The greatest Fellini movie ever!

  • 3 - El Bicho

    Jun 01, 2009 at 8:31 am

    Looks like someone might have to retake the film buff test. I'll take La Dolce Vita as Fellini's greatest.

  • 4 - roger nowosielski

    Jun 01, 2009 at 9:06 am

    Well, hard to argue with your pick.

  • 5 - El Bicho

    Jun 01, 2009 at 9:18 am

    Roger, I find that film to be the perfect synthesis of the two Fellinis, the artist and the neorealist.

  • 6 - roger nowosielski

    Jun 01, 2009 at 10:33 am

    Right! Kind of topped it all. I've seen it only once, when I was sixteen. I surely wouldn't mind to see it again, with fresh eyes.

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