Lambert's is a relatively new barbeque restaurant in downtown Austin which bills itself as having "fancy" barbeque, though in actuality it's more an example of a fancy restaurant which happens to include barbeque on its menu. It's located at Second and Guadalupe, in what used to be the Warehouse District, in a historic building which was preserved while new skyscrapers went up all around it. It's a nice location and a bit of old Austin character in the middle of the wasteland of "smart growth" condos and trendy boutique stores, though that environment has clearly influenced the menu as much as the area's long barbeque tradition has.
We went to Lambert's for Sunday brunch where we could try a broad sampling of their food for a fixed price, though that price was a bit beyond the range one normally expects for barbeque. I tried a number of the breakfast items as well as all the barbeque they had on the brunch menu. The eggs and bacon were good, the biscuits were dismayingly dry and the homestyle hash browns were excellent.
Some of the fancier items were questionable. Good asparagus doesn't need a fancy vinaigrette dressing, and if you put caviar on deviled eggs you might as well just be putting salt on them for seasoning, because the eggs overwhelm the flavor of the caviar. The low point of the breakfast items was the sausage, a rugby-ball-shaped lump of the most indescribably awful mystery meat I've tasted since I tried to make bratwurst from scratch at home.
Then we got to the barbeque. The brunch menu didn't offer the full range of what they have on their lunch and dinner menus. Their jalapeno sausage, achiote and lime rubbed chicken, and pulled pork were not included, but I did get to try pork ribs, brisket, and prime rib.
The brisket was pretty good. It was tender, moist, and flavorful with a good spicy rub. I suspect that it was not just smoked but also roasted for a while in its own juices. The prime rib was also very good. I doubt it was done in a smoker or if it was it was quick-roasted over the coals rather than actually smoked. Smoked prime rib is usually pretty awful. It did have a nice crust and good flavor. The pork ribs were the least good of the meats, with a maple glaze which was just too sweet, but while I didn't love them they earned high marks from the kids.
Article comments
1 - Joanne Huspek
Thanks, Dave, I guess I won't be going there.
I like wet, sloppy barbecue with a Midwest flair. Ever in Minneapolis? Try Rudolph's Barbecue on Lyndale. It's been 25 years since I lived there and I've tried others in the meantime, but it's the best there is, and reasonably priced too. I even buy the sauce by the case.
2 - Joanne Huspek
By the way, your description was too funny!
3 - roger nowosielski
We had a helluva BBQ joint in the Bay Area, the city of Richmond. There's no mistaking about BBQ. Either it's good or it sucks. And yes, the sauces were great too - low, medium or hot. Whatever you heart desires.