Discovering "Quality" Beaujolais

You are probably familiar with Beaujolais Nouveau, the cheerful red wine that is celebrated when it is released the third Thursday of November. For the last several years, it has become a reason for celebration in America as well as its native France. It is fun to drink, and restaurants go wild planning dinners around this highly seasonal wine. Wine aficionados (i.e. cork dorks) will speak fondly of its aromas of banana and bubble-gum, well known characteristics of carbonic maceration, a whole-berry method of fermentation that allows the Gamay grape to retain its fresh, fruity character.

Yet did you know that the Beaujolais region (located just below the area where world-famous Burgundies are produced) is a quality wine producing region in its own right and home to thirteen Crus? Each Cru produces wine from the Gamay grape, yet the terroir of each Cru is unique, different from all the others either in soil, climate, altitude, proximity to the water, or a combination of the above.

Recently a passionate group of “Beaujolais Benefactors” who call themselves “Expressions d’Origine” arrived in Manhattan to show in detail how their wines differ from the simple Beaujolais Nouveau many Americans incorrectly may assume is the same as quality Gamay wine from Cru Beaujolais producers. At a lunch and walk-around tasting, the producers explained their varied soils and methods of production. Consumers and journalists had the opportunity to taste the different wines and attempt to see, nose, and taste the differences between the Crus.

The Expressions d’Origine are comprised of fourteen winegrower-winemakers who – quite frankly, and rightfully so – appear rather tired of having their wines compared to the expensive and highly respected Pinot Noir grapes of Burgundian wineries, and weary of the stigma of American consumers equating all Beaujolais wines with Beaujolais Nouveau. They are proud of their varied soils and quality production methods, and made a passionate case for bringing a new awareness of their wines.

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