Though Collio had been famous for thousands of years, it wasn’t until 1964 that the Collio Consortium was founded to promote the region as a denominazione with a recognizable territorial brand. Save for Pinot Grigio, it’s possible that you haven’t heard of the local varieties — few outside Italy have. Felidia Bastianich, a famous celebrity chef in Manhattan, was born in nearby Istria and can be credited for bringing wines of the region to New York.
In the course of interviewing dozens of winemakers, through Capalo’s eyes we learn about the wine of the region, and also the lifestyle and history of people who live there. “To me,” says Nicola Manferrari of Borgo del Tiglio, “the most important patrimony we have in Italy is the culture of the poor, of the “unschooled” contadini and artisans who seemingly have nothing to teach us but in fact are the transmitters of our most significant wisdom.”
In addition to the poignant stories of the winemakers and cheesemakers and farmers, Capalbo ensures her book does double duty by revealing top restaurants in each area, points of interest, and guest accommodations which she has visited herself. If indeed you do plan to use this book as a guide, be sure to use a yellow highlighter pen to underline important points such as the one Capalbo uses when directing readers to the Latteria di Montefosca dairy: “Always phone to check opening times before venturing up the mountain to Latteria.”
Well said... especially if you are hiking up that mountain!
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