Julian Louie is making his third appearance at New York Fashion Week and it is interesting that this California native has created a unique collection that is a blend, both European in flavor yet retaining some West Coast vibe as well.
Julian Louie talked about his inspiration for Fall/Winter 2010. Essentially, the collection is based on old-world interiors. Some points of inspiration are a chair that was designed for the country house of Marie Antoinette, also known as the Petit Trianon. Other sources of inspiration included the technique of hand-tooled leather inlaid with gold found on antique books and luxurious upholstery done in velvet and silk.
"The entire collection is designed to evoke this sense of heightened craftsmanship while at the same time – through cut, fabrication, and color – proposing a new and severely modern way of dressing."
According to Louie, he used the Swarovski Crystal Elements in two ways. The Crystal Pearls were chosen because of their classic, iconic luxury and are used in degradeacute: grid beading on the sleeves of a wool melton coat; the neckline of a wool and silk velvet dress; or the hemline of a geometric skirt.
Second, tiny Swarovski crystals are used in needlework embroidery based on the floral motifs seen on chair belonging to Marie Antoinette, with intricate hand-crafted patterns to create light and sparkle.
"In a collection conceived around a re-imagining of old-world luxury, the Swarovski Crystalized Elements are the key components that provide amazing richness and depth."
Louie kept to a similar palette as Azouel and what I saw from most of the designers, which are the same range of blacks to grey, with some navy, white and cream tossed into the mix along with tonal hints of yellow, bronze, pink but no statement dresses of color. His line is all about the smaller details and finer embellishments. Think sophisticated and sexy yet with some playful hints. The detailing is what caught my eye and definitely reflects what Julian Louie talks about in the video. It's definitely a pared-down collection. Not quite minimalist, but definitely not over-the-top with the frills. The straightforward presentation with the detailing making the statement is what Louie is all about. I just wish he had dealt with a broader color range.