When I first set out to write this series on the use of stem cell and growth factor technology in cosmetics, I already had some knowledge on the subject. However, the biggest thing I learned while doing the research for these articles is how fast this technology changes. The technology I first learned about less than a year ago at the International Congress of Esthetics and Spa has already been improved upon; and I’m sure when I go back to the same show in October it will have changed again. It’s absolutely amazing and mind boggling, and I hope you have found it as interesting as I have.
My thoughts on plant stem cells in cosmetics…
I have to be honest and say that I have not yet personally used a skin care product containing plant stem cells. While the studies are quite impressive and it would make sense that a totipotent stem cell would be more effective than a multipotent adult stem cell or even an induced pluripotent stem cell (IPS), I still have to think: “but it’s a plant…and human beings are not plants.”
Does the human body have receptors for stem cells from plants? Could a stem cell from a plant differentiate into a human cell? The studies from the IRB as well as PhytoCellTec™ have shown that while the cultured plant stem cells do not actually regenerate new human cells, they do have a strong ability to protect the skin’s existing stem cells and prevent future damage.
Again, I do not have firsthand experience using plant stem cell skin care products so I cannot tell you whether or not they have improved my own skin or my clients’ skin; but based on the research and the results from many published studies I can certainly see how plant stem cells can protect and nourish existing cells.
My thoughts on human derived stem cells and growth factors in cosmetics…
I do have personal experience using Osmosis Pür Medical Skin Care’s Stem Factor serum, which is made of growth factors cultured from stem cells harvested from the subcutaneous fat layer of healthy adult donors. After several months of using Stem Factor my skin has never looked better. My acne is under control, my old acne scars have noticeably flattened and faded, and some of the fine lines I was starting to get have also faded. In all fairness, however, I also use several other products in the Osmosis line and have made lifestyle and dietary changes to enhance my anti-aging efforts. I do have one particular client who does not use all Osmosis products but has incorporated Stem Factor into her existing regimen who has told me she has noticed positive changes in her skin as well.
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Article comments
1 - Dr. Nate Mathews
interesting article, but science tell us stem cells don't produce growth factors? Stem cells are dormant and have no function until activated. Once activated it will differentiate and become and functional cell, which is no longer stem cell. So stem cells are being used for marketing reasons. Growth factors indeed very powerful and I personally experienced many benefits from them but Osmosis use stem cell growth factors, which makes me believe questions Osmosis products.
2 - Dr. Nate Mathews
There are 4 companies that uses Growth factors products backed by science and governments certifications:
1- Skin medica
2- Neocutis
3- Revive
4- AQ Skin solutions
any other companies that are using growth factors in their products are not being truthful.. I wish the author of this article would look into the above companies and report to us.
3 - Rachael Pontillo
There are several companies that use different growth factor technologies. I agree that some companies are not completely truthful with their marketing, which is why I encourage people to do their homework before just putting something onto their skin just because some celebrity endorses it. Osmosis has plenty of research behind their technology...the growth factor media "activates" the stem cells to cause them to divide and produce growth factors along with cytokines. Some of those above companies only use one type of growth factor, along with several chemicals and preservatives that can dilute the media and interfere with the body's ability to absorb and/or use those growth factors. There is also no evidence of any type of delivery system to actually help these growth factors penetrate. Osmosis is always happy to answer questions and address any concerns people may have regarding their technology and products. I have come across several growth factor and stem cell products; some have merit, other have none which I also addressed in this series.
4 - Ben Johnson, MD
I respectfully disagree that stem cells are incapable of producing growth factors. I have personally seen the tests that show distinct growth factor and cytokine production that is unique to each cell type. Osmosis uses a combination of Fibroblasts, Mesenchymal Stem Cells and IPS Stem Cells. We use a higher percentage of fibroblasts because those growth factors are more targeted for dermal remodeling. Please see this link discussing Mesenchymal Stem Cell conditioned media showing the presence of a number of key growth factors.
I agree that there has not been a lot of research on stem cell growth media but I think your judgment is a little premature. SkinMedica only uses fibroblasts and they do not have the liposomal delivery and the full complement of growth factors and cytokines that come with combining cells in growth medias. This serum has only been available for less than a year but research will soon follow. Please keep an open mind on these innovations :)
5 - Rachael Pontillo
Thanks for the info and clarification Dr. Johnson!
6 - John Sanderson, MD
Excellent series of articles summarizing in lay terms a rather complex aspect of leading edge skin care science. My kudos to Rachael for a superb accomplishment.
A minor point of disagreement with Dr. Johnson. None of the cytokines, growth factors, and signaling peptides of interest (the terms overlap somewhat) are unique to any particular human cell type, although cells that are differentiated (e.g. from mesenchymal stem cells to fibroblasts) display different secretory propensities in culture, so that concentrations of individual cytokines will change. The more pluripotent a cell type is, the more capacity it has to produce growth factors and cytokines of all types. But there are many other factors (e.g. starting medium, oxygen tension in the culture environment, growth rate, degree of confluence of cells) that determine how much of each cytokine (or growth factor) is secreted into the culture medium. This “cytokine soup” as I like to call it, can therefore vary considerably in final composition. I have not seen any research to suggest that fibroblast cultures or mixed cultures have any advantage in this context. Indeed, given the physiologic role of mesenchymal stem cells as “first responders” to damage in organs and tissues (lots of recent research here) they would seem to have the theoretical advantage. Keep in mind also that making new collagen is only half the battle in dermal remodeling. The first half involves detecting damaged (old, cross liked, inelastic) collagen, the stuff of wrinkles, breaking it down, removing it, and creating an environment for healing (nutrients, dissolved gases, redox). I am oversimplifying here.
I really appreciated your addressing the myth that plant stem cells results in magical active ingredients when ground up and added to skin care products. There is a huge gap between human and plant cell biology when it comes to growth and repair.
7 - Rachael Pontillo
Thanks for your comment...it's so nice to see this type of discussion here!