Finally, it was expected that most, if not all, perfumers would be chemists as well as "noses".
Luckily, this is changing. There are perfumers who have never set a foot in Grasse, obtained formal chemistry diplomas, or ever known what it's like to pee standing up.
Whilst there is a mixture of rule-breakers and traditionalists on the list of noses, one thing does remain categorically true - this list is very, very short. There are approximately 1000 officially recognised perfumers in the world, out of which only a handful become superstars in the industry.
Then again, if Jo Malone can go from home-made concoctions to Estee Lauder group aquisition faster than you could previously complete a decent Grasse apprenticeship, perhaps I could just find out how to do it myself.
Which, incidentally, is exactly what I've done. I found a wholesaler of fine quality oils, purchased approximately 100 notes (not nearly all that was available, but rather, all that I could afford), searched for recipes, instructions, hints and tips until I was satisfied that something reasonably good could come out of them and set off to catalogue formulas. I made a lucky discovery in a homeware store: they had bought in some test tubes that were presented as possible containers for spices.
I had a better idea. To use them as test tubes! I bought all they had.
So far, I've tried approximately 30 combinations, out of which two formulas are beginning to emerge as something wonderful. I am approaching this with caution and going for notes that I am very comfortable with. (it'll be much easier to develop simple scents at first).
Formula 10 is built around Neroli and formula 24 is The Fragrance (the one I've always wanted, but have never found); an opening wave of crisp Bergamot, a sensual heart of Jasmine Absolute and the sweet warmth of Ylang-Ylang. Obviously, once finished, both of these will have descriptive names. For now, they are just sketches of the finished product, numbers in my notebook.
I've had them in the test tubes, in their current composition, for just over 4 weeks now, so that the oils have had plenty of time to keep each other company and develop into a harmony. Soon I will take them further and attempt to make something akin to real perfume.
I begun experimenting with these formulas before my order of oils had even arrived. I knew what Sweet Orange, Neroli, Ylang-Ylang, Jasmine Absolute, Bergamot, Vetiver, synthetic Musk, oh, a whole host of notes smelled like because, as I mentioned before, they just seem to stick rather well.
Article comments
1 - Natalie Bennett
Fascinating. Odd isn't it, that despite the majority of the products being for women, only men's noses were thought "good enough". I'm sure it is nothing to do with the salaries and an old boys' network!
2 - Nukapai
Natalie, indeed, a curious coincidence! In order to understand the "traditions" involved, one has to cast the eye to who the first perfumes were made for and who the first perfumes were made by. It was the royalty (or, in as far back as Egypt, the equivalent of) who wore the scents and it was their servants who made them.
3 - Gypsy
Nukapai,
Hi! Are you able to reveal what company you found your fine single note oils at?
4 - Mark Bellinghaus
Great article Nukapai! I totally got rid of the annoying same ol same ol parfumes--and when you go to clubs--for a while every gal was surrounding herself in "Angel" and guys would smell like the latest Calvin Klein which just simply turned into a cheap sort of scent.
I personally mix my oils, you shoudl try a bit of Patchouly oil, mixed on your wrists with a drop of Egytian Musk--that is really awesome and I will never ever get tired of that scent. You can also try a bit of opium oil with it and or Sandalwood in it. A bit Hippie and a bit Yoga class neighbor with good energy.
My suggestion to Gypsy: I am buying my oils at Whole Foods market and the name is "Auric Blends".
By the way--finally and after many many years of not agreeing to having his book turned into a movie, the German novelist Patrick Suskind gave the okay for it to be filmed and it is being shut right now. An amazing story and a guaranteed blockbuster hit named: "The Perfume".
5 - Nukapai
Gypsy - I source from a variety of companies, but the three I have used most are: Neal's Yard, Amphora Aromatics and Tisserand.
Mark: I am delighted to hear that "Perfume" is being made into a film! Also, thank you for the blending tips. ;)
6 - Christopher Rose
Don't know how I missed this great article last year, Nuka, but delighted to find it.
Ylang Ylang, Vetiver, Bergamot, Bulgari. The very words themselves make my head spin. Throw in Cinnamon and Patchouli and I'm in scent heaven!
This would make a great little niche net business for you one day, Nuka...
7 - Nukapai
Dear Christopher - thank you for your very flattering feedback! (And, well, I think most of my articles sort of sink without a trace, but I seem to have hit on a hot potato with the Homeopathy one!).
As for business ideas, yes, that's the eventual plan. Making the perfumes and related products into a little business, which may then lead to a bigger business. After writing the above article, I managed to land a job that is the perfect training ground for that and hopefully, one day my dreams might even come true!
8 - Christopher Rose
Nuka, starting businesses on the net is so low cost these days and comparatively much easier than in the real world now it's kind of weird when I meet people who don't get it!
As you may have seen during your kind visit to my poor neglected blog, I'm learning how to do that and each time it becomes easier and easier. Don't hold yourself back, you will find it is not so hard to make dreams come true these days!
9 - eileenmarie
Hi...Would love to sample your products...for my own personal use. Are you into that stage yet. I live in the states....but we get mail! Love your blog.
10 - denish parker
Beautiful is standing at my grandmother's dressing table, surveying the many perfumes resting on mirrored trays and knowing exactly which one I was going to pick - the one that smelled just like Gramma Danicki.
11 - Nancy
Alas, I am nose-blind. Additionally, I find most if not all perfumes today have a harsh, chemical tone to them that sets me sneezing & wheezing, which the 'old' batches of classics like Chanel #5 did not. Even today's #5 smells like this. They must be using some sort of artificial substitute for a natural ingredient? Everything smells like Janitor in A Drum. Especially Giorgio.
12 - Tanya
Hi Nuka,
I was reading your story and became "intrigued" myself! I LOVE perfume, real perfume that is and for years I was always interested in how it was actually made and always curious about those "noses". I finally found a a company that actually offers true 100% real perfume at factory direct prices AND was able to start my very own business selling for them.
I am happy to say, Anais Anais, Samsara, Vera Wang and even Michael Kors perfumes are my most favorite! I also like to mix scents from time to time just to see what kind of "experience" I will get....hey, it's fun for me! LOL
Take Care,
Tanya
A.K.A. "Perfume Lady"
13 - Nukapai
Thank you for all the comments (pleased to see this article is still somewhat active!) - I've made lots of progress on the perfume front; my new job very much relates to fragrances and perfumery and I have been learning a great deal. Currently making several prototypes, some of which have already been sampled to a very select few; not ready for mass test audiences yet.
I have also recently received an amazing gift in form of personal tutoring from two skilled and currently working perfumers.
So far so good. Watch this space. :)
14 - Christopher Rose
Good to know you're still around, Nuka, and that things are going well for you!
15 - Nukapai
*dusts off the perfume shelf* - only a few months late: thank you, Christopher!
I've made a huge amount of progress with all this and it's starting to look quite exciting. No business start-up yet, but it's looking like that's a case of WHEN rather than IF. I'm in no rush with that yet, however. Lots more to learn and do still.
I'm considering whether to post an update on BC about it all. Not sure yet.
16 - Christopher Rose
Nuka, you could even write a whole series of articles about the whole process of developing your own range of perfumes and launching a new brand and business. Then, when and if you do launch, you'll have a small army of interested people who've followed your trials, tribulations and successes!
17 - Nukapai
Hmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm... that sounds like a really amazing idea. I'll have to let it brew for a bit, but gut reaction: wow! Just needs a bit of thought on the how, because part of my learning process currently involves being involved with business-sensitive information and resources (not mine; the company I work for).
As I've often found myself saying - I'll say it again: I like how you think!