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Riedel Wine Glasses: The Science Inside

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For many former students, science was a class where it was hard to get excited. All the talk of human cells, the lectures on atoms, and the discovery that a hypothesis is not a huge, plant-eating African mammal was enough to make someone want to stick their head inside a Bunsen burner. While it may have been a boring subject in youth, in adulthood the science of wine is particularly interesting, making even those of us who hated everything from anatomy to zoology willing to raise our test tubes in a toast.

There are many scientific avenues of wine. From climate to fermentation, from the way wine is stored to the way is it sipped, science is behind nearly every aspect of wine, placing an arm around each grape and urging it forward. One aspect of wine where science is particularly interesting is the area of wine glasses, specifically Riedel wine glasses. It was the Riedel Company that first took the wine glass and made it both a form of science and a form of art.

Claus Riedel lived, worked, and invented by the belief that wine can be enhanced by the shape and design of a glass. With this belief, he set out to invent a line of wine glasses that would unite the wine's personality, its aroma, its taste, and its visual appeal. An avid wine drinker only need to drink out of a Riedel wine glass once to discover that Claus succeeded in his pursuit — he successfully designed wine glasses that would accentuate the best parts of the various types of wine. While it's obvious that his conquest was successful, the reasons why it was successful, the reasons why his way of thinking worked, aren't as clear. For these answers, we turn where all things unclear turn — towards science.

As we all know, there are five senses that drive human perception: sight, hearing, smell, taste, and touch. When it comes to wine, the sense of smell is as important as the sense of taste. It is with this sense that Claus Riedel began, beating the competition by a nose and so much more.

The sense of smell and the sense of taste in humans and many mammals go hand in hand — the way we smell dictates how we taste. This is because the sense of smell and the sense of taste both have a role in how the brain perceives flavor. This is why a person's sense of taste is hindered when they are plagued with a stuffy nose. While we have five taste sensations – sweetness, sourness, bitterness, saltiness, and umani (a Japanese word that means "savory" or "meaty") – we have roughly a thousand genes geared towards odor perception. Because of this, the aroma of the wine – its intensity and its quality – can change the taste of it.

With this knowledge, Claus Riedel began designing glasses with bowls of different shapes. These shapes sent the wine flowing to the tongue while trapping the wine's aroma in a glass, directing it towards the nose.

Wine begins to evaporate when it is poured, quickly filling the glasses with flavorful levels of aroma. The rate at which aroma fills the glass depends on the density and heaviness of the wine. While the lightest vapors rise to the top, the heavier ones remain at the bottom. With this knowledge, Claus Riedel was able to make wine glasses geared towards the aromas of all the different grapes.

Claus realized that the shape of the glass, while dictating emission of aroma, also dictates how a person positions their head while drinking, ultimately altering the way the wine flows into their mouth. Because drinkers of wine all drink with the goal of not spilling a single drop, they willingly alter the position in which they sip. Where wide, open glasses force a drinker to lower their head, narrowly designed glasses force a drinker to tilt their head back. This delivers the wine to different zones of the tongue, resulting in the brain perceiving different flavors. The volume of the glass, the diameter of its rim, the thickness of the crystal, and the finish also all play a role in the roll of the wine onto the tongue.

The rim, in particular, controls the flow of wine, with certain rims possessing an open waterway and others building a bit of a dam. A cut rim, for example, allows the wine to flow onto the tongue in a smooth, consistent manner. A rolled rim, conversely, slows the flow of wine, causing acidity and tartness to be enhanced.

In order for this process to work successfully, Claus also maintained that perfect wine glasses needed to be clear, undecorated, thin-walled, polished, shaped like an egg, and made of crystal. In other words, perfect wine glasses needed to be Riedels.

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About Jenn Jordan

  • LB

    The idea that a Pinot Noir tastes better in a Riedel Pinot Noir glass or that a Rhone wine tastes better in a Riedel Rhone glass is likely nothing more than marketing bullshit.

    Show me the data! Who cares about what old man Riedel *believed*.

    Has anybody done any controlled STUDIES about this?

  • http://wwpress.blogspot.com Wilf Krutzmann

    Glass shape and size definitely make a difference.I owned a wine shop in Victoria BC and sold Riedel glassware. Riedel introduced their Vinum Extreme Icewine glass (444/55)in 2001 based on Ontario Icewines . British Columbia Icewines are different in style from the Ontario Icewines and I felt the glass was not suitable to BC Icewines. Accordingly I devised a n Icewine evaluation chart. A 20 point total was broken down into 4 categories of 5 points each. The 4 categories to be evaluated were physical characteristics of each glass, bouquet/aroma, flavour intensity and oral component of each of 4 different Riedel glasses. I set up a 6 member panel of wine experts, including the world’s leading authority on Icewines, John Schreiner. John’s book entitled simply “Icewine” is the most comprehensive treatise on the subject of Icewines from around the globe. We tasted 4 Icewines, 3 from BC and one from Ontario using 4 different Riedel glasses, including the Vinum Extreme Icewine glass.Five out of six panelists agreed the Vinum Extreme Icewine glass was not suitable for the BC Icewines but all agreed it worked well with the Ontario Icewine.We made the determination that a smaller version of the Vinum Sauvignon Blanc glass in the 9 oz.size range would be ideal.All the data was forwarded to Riedel in Austria and they showed great interest. However they needed an order of 50,000 glasses in order to proceed. I was in the wine business, not a glass retailer or wholesaler so that ended that project. But our definitive finding was that a glass’ shape and size definitely is important to bringing out the best in a wine.

  • Steven

    I was always under the impression that a glass without a stem would be more likely to transfer heat from the wine glass holders hand and this transfer of heat could have an affect on the taste or aroma.

    Now the argument could be made that this transfer of heat is minimal but then couldn’t you say the same thing about the varrying aroma which is talked about in the 8th paragraph?

  • Vidar F

    I recently tried the Riedel Vinum Extreme Prosecco glass (444/85) for the first time, at the Don Alfonso 1890 restaurant in Sant’Agata (about an hours drive South of Naples, Italy). They used it for serving a Jacques Selosse Rosé Champagne out in the garden. It was GREAT! I felt the glass really helped bring out the complexity of this extraordinary Champagne. I highly recommend it for rosé Champagnes with a distinct personality, like the Selosse! It is a very beautiful glass in real life and has a good feel to it. I believe that the slightly larger surface area, combined with the right amount/curve of narrowing in at the top helps bring out more of the nuances of different Champagnes. At the price it can hardly be beaten. My absolute favorite champagne glass!