The journey had finally come to its end, after spending more than a year studying in Austria, it was time to go back. Many things were left behind, and even more were awaiting all the way over the other side of the Atlantic. The final destination: Mexico; more precisely, Monterrey.
Four years ago, Mexico's government, led by Felipe Calderón; declared war against organized crime. This resulted in an increase in shootings, kidnappings, robberies and a general feeling of insecurity for the Mexican people. Monterrey is one of the cities that has been affected the most by this war, specially over the course of this past year.
My flight landed at McAllen, Texas; a city in the United States across the border from Reynosa, Mexico, known by many as “Little Monterrey” because of the many shopping tourists coming from there. After that, the trip back home was to continue by car. The insecure atmosphere everyone had been talking about became tangible as soon as I crossed the border; military trenches and police cars appeared every once in a while during the 2 hour car trip.
The first impression one has of Monterrey in daylight is that of an active city. The lanes of Constitución, one of the city's busiest avenues, were as cluttered as they were a year ago, and yet they were not the same. The street had to be reconstructed after hurricane Alex, arguably the most destructive hurricane ever to pass through the city, and now is only a one-way road.
Monterrey is known in Mexico for its wealth, hard-working citizens and important industries; this is very apparent if you take a look at the streets: people are always going somewhere, and despite all the constant warnings from the local TV news to not go out unless it's absolutely necessary; shops are crowded and life is seemingly normal — business as usual.
The page turns at night though. The streets look emptier and emptier after the sun starts to set. “We don't want to take the risk anymore,” says a school bus driver after I ask him why the last bus goes now at 19:15, instead of 21:00. The police emergency lights seem blinding at times when driving on the street at night. It was not uncommon for me to yield to a police car, speeding, trying to get somewhere; a shooting perhaps. Portable police forts were installed all over the city in a government attempt to enable quicker response to shootings and other violent crimes; police emergency lights have become a part of the city landscape.
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Article comments
1 - Alan Kurtz
Outstanding article. This is one of the finest pieces of writing I've seen on Blogcritics for a very long time.
2 - jeffrey O'Brien
Great, great writing. I've been to Monterrey four times in the last year. Sobering changes.
3 - Mariusz
I'm sorry to hear about that... I remember how you used to say back in Austria that Monterrey was one of the cities largely unaffected by the drug war. Best wishes for you and your country.
4 - Lee
Eduardo, this story is so real that it even made me scared... Two thumbs up to your writing, it's really amazing :)
5 - Julian Castro
Man, sadly this is the same story i had in Culiacan before leaving and even worst, the one i found out while back last month after a year and a half here in Austria. The first sentence the taxi driver told me on my way from Monterrey's Airport to the city was "how long are you staying in the city? if you can, please just stay at home, last week i was kidnapped. This city is not safe place anymore..."
I really hope and share your belief that this will change soon and that we will be able to proudly talk about our country one day again.
6 - Pablo
This terrible problem would disappear overnight if drugs were legalized in the US. Nuff said.
7 - Clavos
Not if they weren't also legalized in Mexico. There are more than a few addicts in that country as well.
8 - Christopher Rose
Never mind legalising drugs in the USA and/or Mexico, the entire global "war" on drugs is a criminal waste of time, money and good people's lives.
The economic savings alone make this a very attractive programme which ought to be implemented asap.
Furthermore, every other "war" on anything should also be terminated immediately.
These issues are just the tip of an iceberg of overly intrusive government which needs slashing away urgently.
9 - Andy Marsh
Well said CR!
10 - Glenn Contrarian
It also doesn't help that - according to CNN two years ago - there are something like 2000 guns smuggled across the border to Mexico each DAY.
But I should just be quiet, I guess, since guns make us all so much safer....
11 - M
But I should just be quiet, I guess, since guns make us all so much richer....
fixed it for ya
12 - Ruvy
Eduardo, this sounds a lot like Israel - on speed. When we first came here, there were terrorist attacks in Jerusalem nearly every day - only the worst made the international media. A lot of Israelis pack heat. They have to.
The difference is that what you are dealing with is a group of terrorist gangs using drugs as its method of funding - but essentially trying to end the sovereignty of your government anyway. We don't face the criminal aspects of this in Israel the way you have to. This is what the residents of Gaza have of face.
This is an excellent piece of writing. Keep it up Eduardo! Don't let the fear get you down, and remember that your computer is your weapon to help you tell the world of your hell in Monterrey. You are not helpless.
May G-d watch over you, and keep your mind serene and calm in the battle you find yourself in the midst of.
Blessings from the mountains of Samaria,
Ruvy
13 - Cecilia McM
Eduardo, I love the fact that you speak the truth about the tragic reality the "regiomontanos" have to face on a daily basis, and I am sorry after your wonderful experience in Europe, you returned to witness the horrific transformation of our beloved city of Monterrey. Living in the US, I hate to hear the tragic events in your article: the violence, the fear, the people's adaptation to this war, and I hate the fact that crime is taking over Mexico's freedom. How sad. This is not right, not to Monterrey, not to the hardest working people in Mexico. We shouldn't accept it. Please continue to chronicle these horrible events. The world needs to know. Keep up the good work! Blessings to all in Mexico
14 - Andrea Fritz
Take care, Edu!