Culture is all very well, but there comes a point when the inner child breaks free. And that point comes at Balboa Park's San Diego Model Railroad Museum. At 28,000 square feet, it's the biggest indoor model railway display in the world. I dare you not to be mesmerised as tiny locomotives rattle their way across the small, but perfectly formed, landscapes. Better yet is the toytown layout, where Thomas the Tank Engine and friends delight trainspotters of all ages.
The park is busy all year round, but some attractions - such as the House of Pacific Relations International Cottages - are open only on Sundays. The cottages - glorified garden sheds, really - represent thirty-one countries. Each has its own decor and most offer refreshments that are more than welcome on a sweltering afternoon. In Iran, I guzzled down some refreshing fruit juice, while in Sweden I gorged on pastries. "Welcome back to Italy!" my host gushed as I returned for a second helping of ice cream. Meanwhile, England was a shrine to the royal family, Denmark was being renovated and France was shut. And then I arrived in Scotland.
With bagpipes on the wall, an outbreak of tartan on a plastic tablecloth, and two sticks of shortbread on a plate, Scotland's cottage was a bit of a let-down. As I hovered hungrily by the shortbread, the kilted host continued explaining to his colleague how a caber should be tossed. I wandered back out, unacknowledged, unfed, unsatisfied. Maybe he was just trying to make me feel at home.
Each week, a different country takes over the open space in front of the cottages and makes merry on the central lawn. During my visit, burly Germans in lederhosen were busy building a maypole, while hearty maedschen dispensed cheer, beer, and sausages. But I had no time to tarry with the bratwursts. In the distance, the pipes, the pipes were calling.
When it comes to musical muscle, it's hard to beat the Spreckels Organ. Weighing in at over 100,000 pounds, it's a pipe-tastic colossus. The weekly performances attract thousands to hear the best of organ classics by such note worthies as Saint Saens and Franck. But you're just as likely to hear works by Cole Porter and George Gershwin.
Article comments
1 - Tim from San Diego
Great article. I'm glad you enjoyed your trip to San Diego. You have provided a nice overview of Balboa Park. I will point out two additional things for your readers - 1. If you are a golf lover, Balboa Park has a public course with nice views of downtown and Coronado Island. 2. If you love aviation, the Aerospace Museum is definitely worth a visit. San Diego was home to a lot of early aviation innovations because of its good weather and limited wind. Our airport is called Lindbergh Field because the Spirit of St. Louis was built here.
2 - Joanne Huspek
Great review. I haven't been there in decades, but I'm going back in a few weeks. What amazed me the first visit was that it was so "California." My daughter is going to school on the Left Coast, and so the visit. I'll be sure to check it out again.
3 - OutsiseTemtes
Definately will not go to Vilamoura anymore, 6 Hour rounds of Golf and 4.5 Euros for a beer, we will stay clear of the Vilamoura golf courses this year, and the so called free shuttle bus turns up if you are lucky.