The Shanghai Diaries: Beijing and the Great Wall

Part of: The Shanghai Diaries

Before even coming to Shanghai we knew that we would eventually be taking a trip to Beijing and then the Great Wall. It is simply what you do when you are in China. Or what you should do. Or something. When I say that we made the journey a couple of weeks ago it is understood – only what is natural. When you look at the calendar and realize it took us nearly a year in China before we actually made the trip – well that takes a little explaining. All I can really say is that since we knew we would make the trip sometime, it became easy to put it off until the end.

There is a night train from Shanghai to Beijing and we decided to take this path. We ordered a soft sleeper (which comes with soft beds as opposed to the hard beds we could have ordered). They come four beds to a room, and with only three of us (we came with our friend Sara) we prayed that our other bed would be occupied by either no one, or at least someone old and quiet. What we found was not one person occupying the extra space but two. We looked at our tickets to make sure we had the right room, showed them to the two elderly Chinese people occupying our space and got curious looks on our faces. The couple looked at the tickets, acknowledged that they were valid and for this room, then the old man moved off one of the beds and moved to his companion's bed. We moved our stuff in and wondered if they would both sleep in the same bed.

Expecting to get very little sleep, and to have a miserable night, I settled in for a very long journey. In preparation for the trip, I had put a couple of movies on my iPod and I queued up the new TV version of the Andromeda Strain. The night went amazingly smoothly. Sure it was a little hot, and the bathroom was gross due to a mix-up involving where to put used tissue paper (often the Chinese toilets are not meant for tissue and instead you must put them in a waste basket) but mostly things were fine. The old man eventually left for his room, the lady was quiet, and my movie was just the right thing to make me sleepy. By 11:00 I was sound asleep. At about 6:00 the next morning the lights automatically came on and our train arrived in Beijing by 7:00.

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Article Author: Mat Brewster

Mat Brewster is a periodic ex-pat wondering if he'll ever find a home. You can find him musing on pop culture, and obsessing over concert bootlegs at The Midnight Cafe.

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Article comments

  • 1 - maskay

    Jul 03, 2008 at 8:47 am

    thank you for your blogs. I find it facsinating to hear about how different life is there.

  • 2 - Mat Brewster

    Jul 03, 2008 at 9:14 am

    Thanks. Stay tuned for my next installment which should be about my trip to Sichuan provence or as my friends call it "real China." Things were very different there.

    I'm not sure when I'll get it written though. We're taking off for a couple of weeks tomorrow for a little rest and relax in Cambodia and Thailand. Then not long after that we're headed home! But I still have several stories to tell before it is all over.

  • 3 - El Bicho

    Jul 03, 2008 at 10:08 pm

    Very nice write-up. Have you started sending out the book proposals yet?

    "The old man eventually left for his room, the lady was quiet,"

    time to make your move

    "To enter you must go through a bag check,"

    The square itself? Hmm, things have changed since my visit.

    "In the middle is the Mao Zedong Memorial Hall where the body of the deceased chairman lays on display."

    I went through it, and Abe Lincoln from Disney's Hall of Presidents looked more believable.

    "the beauty Temple of Heaven, and the lovely Summer Palace."

    two of my favorite spots.

    The Wall rocks and I have been to the top of one section of it.

  • 4 - Mat Brewster

    Jul 03, 2008 at 10:35 pm

    Yup, as we walked into the square there was a table with some guards asking to look in our bags. It wasn't a thorough search, but a search none the less.

  • 5 - Juliann Mitchell, PhD

    Jul 09, 2008 at 10:05 pm

    Mat,
    Your articles never disappoint. Great reads and a fascinating look at China. You have the ability to make it all come alive.

    Juliann

  • 6 - Mat Brewster

    Jul 10, 2008 at 9:38 am

    Thanks so much. It's been quite an adventure. I am a bit saddenned that it will all be over in a couple of weeks as we are headed back to the States. I still have lots of stories though including getting a massage in my bed, weird propositions in Siem Reap, Cambodia, a trip to earthquake stricken Sichuan Provence and more.

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