As I sit marveling at the similarities between Bulacan province and the Mississippi Delta, the other passengers on the bus are watching 'Slumdog Millionaire'...and I realize that just as I was gazing in wonder at the countryside so like that of my youth, the other passengers had to be watching in wonder at the many similarities between the world of 'Slumdog' and the life of the normal Filipino.
Baguio itself is memorable — it's waaaaaay up in the boondocks (which word is actually from the similarly-pronounced Tagalog 'bundok') and is not a small city - the population has to be well over a million. This is remarkable since there are only three two-way roads that provide logistical support for this city, and those roads twist and turn on hairpin curves bounded by thousand-foot cliffs on either side. And if that weren't enough, add to it the Filipino tradition of passing slow vehicles at every opportunity, including on blind curves. It was fairly obvious to me that in Baguio, one either became a very good driver...or one didn't drive for long. My youngest son said the next 'Fast and Furious' movie should be based in the Philippines...but using the regular drivers.
The next day we went to La Union (pronounced 'La Oonion') and stayed at a beachfront resort...but the term 'resort' is used very loosely indeed. The toilet seat was broken and could not be used; the point-of-use water heater for the shower was completely unusable, as was the shower head - we had to use the 'tabo' ("tah-bow"), which is a large bucket and a pail, and such is actually the normal and quite effective way of bathing here; the doors could not have withstood a strong kick; the bed was a thin foam rubber mattress; getting an extra towel was an exercise in futility; hucksters prowled the beach practically begging one to buy ice cream, pan de sal, flowers, swords and machetes, and balut ("bah-loot" - Pinoy claim these are great for the libido...and that belief in and of itself should alert one that these are an 'acquired taste' - preserved fertilized eggs in various stages of embryonic development from lumpy to crunchy (ugh!) - crack open one end and slurp away, they say...but I've yet to do so)...
...but the resort — 'Long Island Beach Resort' — proved to be the most enjoyable, most romantic time we've had since Kauai twelve years ago. The water was warmer than in Hawaii and just as clean, the beach itself was as nice as any on O'ahu, the sunset was one of the most magnificent sunsets I've ever seen, and unhindered night swimming among the stars (and lightning far to the south)...all these combined with the off-the-beaten-path provincial atmosphere to make for a truly unforgettable afternoon and evening.
Article comments
1 - Clarence Yu
Great article. Though I beg to disagree on the system of collecting income and sales tax --- oh, the Bureau of Internal Revenue can be quite creative.
2 - Ruvy
Bang up article Glenn! Your writing reminds me of a less bitter version of Moshe Saperstein. An Israeli humor writer who once wrote for the Jerusalem Post, who wrote essays on life in Nevé Dekalim in Gush Qatif, where he and Rachel had retired to live - and who wrote bitterly of being expelled from his home there by a criminal Israeli regime led by Ariel Sharon.
He too, lives in a slum. Not by choice, or to be near relatives, but because his home was stolen from him.
3 - Glenn Contrarian
Thank you both for the encouragement - it really does help. Maybe this is the better way to become published, by writing about experiences and ironies most Americans don't see - instead of writing long, fictional epics on a grand scale and then watch the torrid pace of technology outdate everything one has written in a matter of months.
Again, thanks!
4 - Jordan Richardson
Nice article, Glenn. I've passed this over to my wife's family (she's Filipino). Very unique, fresh perspective with great lively tone and sharp punches of humour. Well done!
5 - Joanne Huspek
I'm going to have to bookmark this to read again, it was that enjoyable. Nicely done!