....
At first I thought they were swallows since they swoop-and-loop crazy fast, but they're actually fruit bats. Living with bats seems a bit Gothic at first, but now it's just pretty cool. I really don't like the ants - they're called 'langam', pronounced 'lun-gum' — because they're everywhere if you're not careful with your food (and they bite).
As I was typing this I heard a bicycle horn — every morning a guy rides through the streets selling 'pan-de-sal', freshly-made rolls (much better than biscuits). I called out from the upstairs window and he of course stopped ("white guy calling out means more money for me!") and waited for me to come downstairs with some cash. Our maid - my wife's cousin (and of course we treat her as close family too) - was waiting to pay P100 (about 2 dollars) for fifty rolls, two pisos per roll. I said never mind I'll pay, and she said no she'll pay, and I said come on, kunwaray ka pa! ("you're saying no, but you mean yes (but in a nice way)"). So I hand her the P100 bill and she waits for the guy to hand her a plastic sack of pan-de-sal. He hands her a full bag and she says "Sinabi ko for P100!" He had handed her about half what she wanted, and she of course saw it. He smiled and handed her the rest, and she smiled and we all thanked each other.
You see, it's no malice, nothing personal — he's just trying to make the most of what he can, because he's certainly not rich and compared to many locals I am seen as rich (but I'm certainly not!). He'll be by again tomorrow and the same scenario will likely play out again...and I'll be glad to see him and laugh with him.
....
We took a trip to Baguio today. It's a famous tourist spot in the mountains, and is the location of the traditional 'summer palace' of the president. Due to the elevation - I've yet to determine it, but it seems at least 4000 feet up - the air is significantly cooler, and the vegetation is reminiscent of some of the nicer parts of Washington's Olympic Peninsula.
The flatlands between Manila and the mountains of La Union province strongly reminded me of the Mississippi Delta — the lines of trees alongside the ditches that border the fields, solitary tin-roofed shacks in the middle of the planted crops, and the children running along the dirt roads...there were even mimosa, willow, magnolia, and pine trees — each sightly different from the ones that grew on our one acre in the Delta of my youth, but the close relations are obvious.
Article comments
1 - Clarence Yu
Great article. Though I beg to disagree on the system of collecting income and sales tax --- oh, the Bureau of Internal Revenue can be quite creative.
2 - Ruvy
Bang up article Glenn! Your writing reminds me of a less bitter version of Moshe Saperstein. An Israeli humor writer who once wrote for the Jerusalem Post, who wrote essays on life in Nevé Dekalim in Gush Qatif, where he and Rachel had retired to live - and who wrote bitterly of being expelled from his home there by a criminal Israeli regime led by Ariel Sharon.
He too, lives in a slum. Not by choice, or to be near relatives, but because his home was stolen from him.
3 - Glenn Contrarian
Thank you both for the encouragement - it really does help. Maybe this is the better way to become published, by writing about experiences and ironies most Americans don't see - instead of writing long, fictional epics on a grand scale and then watch the torrid pace of technology outdate everything one has written in a matter of months.
Again, thanks!
4 - Jordan Richardson
Nice article, Glenn. I've passed this over to my wife's family (she's Filipino). Very unique, fresh perspective with great lively tone and sharp punches of humour. Well done!
5 - Joanne Huspek
I'm going to have to bookmark this to read again, it was that enjoyable. Nicely done!