Photo Essay: Inside and Outside the World’s Greatest and Grandest Mosque

Mecca has Masjid-al-Haram and Istanbul boasts of the Blue mosque. The former has its ancient authenticity compromised by Petrodollar-funded air-conditioned renovations and the latter's magnificent splendor pales under the brilliant glow of the much older basilica of Hagia Sophia.

Delhi's Masjid-i-Jahan Numa — the mosque commanding a view of the world — neither tolerates nor suffers such ignominies. Standing erect on a high ground, the grand mosque is the sole custodian of all that is beautiful, commanding, powerful, and historical about Old Delhi.

Welcome to Jama Masjid, so called because of a large prayer congregation that gathers in its great courtyard on the Fridays or Jummas of every week.

Old Delhi - Filth, Stench, and the Muslims

"Are you crazy? Why are you going there? That place stinks of dead chickens and dirty Muslims!" This was the regrettable response of a dear friend when I invited him for an afternoon excursion to Jama Masjid.

For many Delhiites, it becomes necessary to travel to Old Delhi only when there is no option but to board trains from its bustling railway station. True, the historical bazaar of Chandani Chowk -- the moonlit square -- situated in the same district, is legendary and retains a charm for the tourists, but it is congested and makes for an exhausting experience for the natives.

Modern day Delhites, belonging to a new and shining India, have other preferences. They chose to shop in glitzier malls -- glamorous American bubbles -- situated far away from the depressing third-world reminders like Old Delhi.

Jama Masjid - There It Is

The streets should have been secreted under a haze of languidness and the stone stairs leading to the mosque should have been bare and lonely. After all, it was a Ramadan afternoon. Pious Muslims, keeping fast during the day, remain hungry 'til dusk when it is time to break fast by feasting on a special meal called Iftar.

Ramadan is always a trying time for the faithful, since even water is not permitted to pass through the throat. To conserve energy, long days are whiled away by lying still in bed. It is not a surprise that Muslims choose to stay at home rather than deplete their energy by going about the business of the day.

This was not to be so this afternoon. The streets were crowded. Beggars were crying "Ya Allah" with all their passion. Chirping families were busy buying clothes, bed sheets, socks, sandals, and kitchen utensils. At one corner, even kebabs were being roasted. Were people actually keeping fast? Could it be that Muslims have finally started being less conservative?

Article Author: Mayank Austen Soofi

Mayank Austen Soofi owns a private library and four blogs: The Delhi Walla, Pakistan Paindabad, Ruined By Reading, and Mayank Austen Soofi Photos. Contact: mayankaustensoofi@gmail.com

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