The Pakistani office, on the other hand, appears to be older and is served by officials wearing a gray-colored shalwar kameeze (Shalwar are loose trousers and the kameeze is a long shirt), though it is brighter with open corridors and sun-lit rooms and a lush garden beyond.
If an Indian visitor looks reasonably harmless and is not carrying suspicious materials, chances are that the customs formalities would be processed in a short amount of time. If you happen to be a white Westerner, you will be processed much sooner.
A Rare Sighting
A lady walks without any male escort in a customs office corridor. She was one of the few women encountered on the Pakistani side of the border. Women dressed in shalwar kameeze and with their heads covered with dupatta (a scarf or covering for the head and upper body worn by women) are a common sight in Pakistan. They are not an uncommon sight in India, either.
It must be mentioned here that while these pictures were being clicked, the customs office was suffused with the fragrance of freshly cooked Mutton Biryani. Perhaps it was lunch time.
Inside Pakistan - First Impression
There was a stark difference between the Indian and Pakistani sides of the border. India was more colorful and was crowded with smelly dhabas, irritating touts, and boisterous tourists mostly from the surrounding villages.
Pakistan was relatively peaceful and almost silent. There was less business and bargaining. The military presence, in absence of the civilians, was consequently quite overwhelming.
Spying the 'Enemy'
The highway that connects Wagah to Lahore was littered with aggressive and very visible army camps like these. This was not so between Amritsar and Wagah in the Indian side where the army presence was more subdued. It was unmistakable that one was now in a military-ruled country. This was Pakistan - the cantonment of General Pervez Musharraf.
[The author traveled to Pakistan in September, 2006]
Article comments
1 - gentletouchee
good insight,nice pics!more of your country,bridge the gap for world peace...
2 - Ruvy in Jerusalem
Very interesting article... The last two photos did not download on my computer...
3 - Nancy
Very surprised your camera wasn't seized by one side or the other. Amazing pictures and nice, balanced assessment of both sides' pluses & minuses. Wonder if that woman was a secretary? Do they have women as secretaries in India/Pakistan?
4 - Syed
Your statement about testimony of Christians being worth less is incorrect.
5 - Mayank Austen Soofi
Ruvy, I'm intrigued that you were not able to download the last two pictures. Did you try again? Nancy, thanks for calling it a balanced assesment. This complement means a lot to me. Yes, there are women secretaries in both India and Pakistan. I'm not aware about Pakistan, but in India one is surprised if there is a man working as a secretary. Syed, I wish I were wrong.
6 - SALEEM A NAUSHAHI
INTRESTING ARTICLE WITH PICTURES AND PERSONAL EXPERIENCE WHILE CROSSING BORDER FROM INDIA TO PAKISTAN.
YOUR STATEMENT REGARDING TESTIMONNY OF CHRISTIANS IS INCORRECT AND BASED ON MISINFORMATION AND PROPODANDA MACHINES WORKING AGAINST PAKISTAN TO TARNISH ITS IMMAGE AND THAT OF ISLAM.
YOU ARE PERHAPS NOT AWARE THAT ACCORDING TO COSTITUTION OF ISLAMIC REPUBLIC OF PAKIATAN EVERY CITIZEN OF PAKISTAN IS FREE TO HAVE ANY RELIGEON,JOIN ANY PROFESSION JOIN ANY POLITICAL PARY.
7 - diana hartman
I am pleased to tell you this article is being featured in the Culture Focus today, September 21st.
Diana Hartman
Culture Editor
8 - saif ahmad khan yusufzayee
Pakistani are really those who are just creating a bad impression on Islam as well as on our Muslim community too.These people are always drwaing and carving wrong impression about Islam.
9 - Victor Lana
This is a really wonderful piece. It calls to mind my opportunities to cross borders over the years. What your writing really shows is that there are places worth exploring everywhere.
I do know that tourists can be annoying at times (here in New York that is an understatement), but there is something wonderful and amazing about tourism. If we could funnel all the money (usually spent on wars) into having people visit other places and learning about different cultures, perhaps the world would be a better place.
I really enjoyed this article. Thanks! Oh, and the photos are outstanding!
10 - Jatinder Dhesi
Very interesting
Can you travel by car between Pakistan and India?
11 - Nagesh
Does anybody know if the Wagha border crossing is open for Indian nationals to cross from Pakistan to India??
12 - Joseph
I am a European man. I want to marry
my fiancee who is an Indian national
I will come by Land Rover to pick her up in India
How will we go about VISA?
Can we just cross by filling out forms?
What about crossing the Pakistan/Iran border?
13 - Raj
@SALEEM A NAUSHAHI if that's right , why people kidnapping hindu people and killed them ? Why Yusuf Yohanna Has to be known as Mohhamad Yusuf ?? why they are forcing other people to join Islam ? according to one study, after division there was 16.7% of other religions in Pakistan , and now it's less than 2% ? why is that so ?
14 - rakesh
i am agree with you raj.
15 - waqas
well rakesh & raj.... if you are forced will you convert??? i think never ever