Chitral: A Bloody History and a Glorious Geography

Picturesque Chitral town sits in Pakistan's northwest district, walled in by the Hindu Kush range. During winter the only way in is by air (weather permitting) as the two passes, the 3118-meter Lowari from Dir and the 3810-meter Shandur from the upper Gilgit Valley, are closed. The Fokker Friendships drone for 50 minutes and burst through clouds on descent to reveal white-capped mountains and red tin-roofed houses. On the small airfield, the cold wind makes you shiver. The remoteness of the district has left it undeveloped in spite of grand natural beauty, hospitable people and a long history, so the town is a base camp for tourists, adventurers and researchers from across the world. And, people seem to be living there in peace.

Chitral boasts lively bazaar - a miniature Peshawar full of Mediterranean-looking faces under Chitrali caps and foreigners. Geoffrey Moorhouse in his book To the Frontier describes the town as sleepy. Now the modest bazaar is lined up with well-stocked provision shops, eating joints and souvenir shops selling many things from traditional caps to Lajvard (Armenian stone) and Zamurrad (emeralds), for the tourists mostly. The American sleeping bags and rucksacks, Bulgarian ankle boots and Korean jackets that used to be on sale in bazaar during Soviet occupation in Afghanistan are no more sold there. 


Mehtars' fort, on the banks of the Kunar River, is the principal building that reminds of the bygone era. Go to visit the palace and the sleeping guard, when awoken, will ask for a permit from district management. The palace-fortress, site of the 1895 siege, is still occupied by royal offspring, explaining the need for a special arrangement. 

The entrance of the south end is to the residential quarters. The one facing Shahi Bazaar used to be for the royal guards. The most interesting side faces the river and is best viewed from the far end of the bazaar or from across the river.  The river passing through the town is called Chitral (or Kunar) River, and upstream is known as Mastuj River. 

Another ornate building up the road toward the police station was the royal courthouse. The spacious Shahi Mosque next door was built by Mehtar Shuja ul Mulk. New minarets and domes have been added during recent renovation, keeping the edifice in its original shape.

At the south end of town is one of Pakistan's best polo grounds, where practice matches are held every few days from mid-March to early November and full-blown matches on weekends. The town has weeklong tournament in September to October. There are roaring crowds and drum and horn bands that play the signature tune of each player who scores a goal. 

Polo is still played in many up-valley towns too, though it's a dying sport because horses are costly to own and no longer needed for transport. One of the biggest social events for Chitralis is days of super-polo and merrymaking at Shandur Pass, which has been held every few years since 1936.

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  • 1 - mahvish

    May 23, 2009 at 4:26 am

    chitral valley of great , peace loving and beautiful people is a paradise! your word are praise worthy... chitral PARADISE

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