Austin is the sun at the heart of a solar system of great barbeque. Orbiting around it are a number of towns known for their unique barbeque, most notably Lockhart to the southeast, Elgin to the east, Taylor to the northeast and Llano to the west. Each of these towns has their unique style of barbeque and several good restaurants, and I find myself driving every so often to one of these points to try out an old favorite or experiment with something new.
This week I went for lunch at a unique spot that's new to me, but very old and familiar to the people of Taylor, Vencil Mares' Taylor Cafe. The cafe is a well-kept secret which I wasn't even aware of until I chanced to see a sign for it from an overpass by the railyard in downtown Taylor. I noted it and made plans to come back later and try it out. Other Taylor barbeque restaurants have gotten a lot of attention in the regional and national press and through it all the Taylor Cafe has remained the preference of the old-time barbeque afficionados of the local population.
Taylor is one of the few still functioning industrial towns in Texas, a unique throwback to an older age, with factories and active train traffic and a lot of character. Vencil Mares started the Taylor Cafe almost 60 years ago when he got back from World War II. It's right by the railyard, so close that the walls shake and you can't talk on the phone when the freight trains pass through. Inside it's dark and welcoming. There are a few tables around the walls, but the proper place to eat is the u-shaped counter that fills most of the room, leaving room for a pool table and an old Galaga game in one corner.
Authentic atmosphere doesn't always guarantee good barbeque, but in this case some pretty marvelous things come from the smokers behind the building. The menu is limited to standard offerings, with the usual beef brisket, sausage, pork ribs and chicken. An interesting addition is the turkey sausage, and the sides are pretty basic, including pickles, onions, bread and crackers. You can get your barbeque in plates, by the pound or in several types of sandwich. They've got the usual drinks, but they also have beer, which seems to be a major attraction for a lot of the locals who spend time at the Taylor Cafe which seems to have an almost resident clientele for whom it's a social gathering spot.
Article comments
1 - Matthew T. Sussman
Texas vs. Tennessee: Who's got the better BBQ?
2 - Dave Nalle
Do I have to go to Tennessee to do a comparison. Ick. I hear Memphis has good BBQ, but it's going to be destroyed by a tidal bore after the giant earthquake.
Dave
3 - Matthew T. Sussman
I hear fear of the apocalypse gives the meat an extra kick.
4 - Dave Nalle
Are you in Tennessee? Any recommendatons?
Dave
5 - Matthew T. Sussman
Not really. I just had a taste at the Memphis Int'l Airport when I had a layover there. I just knew of its reputation, and my co-workers from San Antonio loves Memphis BBQ.
6 - Dave Nalle
If you're in San Antonio you should head out west to Cooper's in Llano sometime. Have their pork chops. Awesome stuff.
Dave
7 - Patricia , New Mexico
Who on earth eats crackers with barbecue? Only a Texan!! They also eat crackers with enchiladas. Apparently they don't know about sopapillas. Best barbecue...Tennessee or Texas? Tennessee hands down!
8 - Dave Nalle
Only a very limited number of oldtimers still eat crackers with mexican food. And sopapillas are a desert food not something you eat with enchiladas.
Dave
9 - Patricia , New Mexico
In New Mexico, sopapillas are served to be eaten with enchiladas or saved to be eaten drizzled with honey later. If you want some real mexican food, forget Texas and Arizona and come to New Mexico.
10 - Patricia , New Mexico
If you want some real barbecue, go to Tennessee!
11 - vikk
I'm not big on BBQ but your article is certainly tempting.
12 - matt
I live in Central Texas, and I am spoiled with great BBQ all the time.
I've NEVER had bad BBQ since I've lived here.
In fact I don't think I have ever had "bad" BBQ.
13 - Dave Nalle
Matt, there's bad BBQ everywhere if you don't order the local specialty. Just go into any BBQ joint and order Pork Loin if you want something flavorless and tough.
Dave
14 - J.GARZA
THERE IS NO WRONG WAY TO EAT YOUR BBQ OR MEXICAN FOOD.DEPENDING ON WHAT PART OF THE COUNTRY YOUR FROM,THAT`S WHAT YOU`RE USED TO.I`M FROM SOUTH TEXAS.WAY SOUTH,RIGHT NEXT TO THE BORDER.ENCHILADAS ARE WRAPED IN TORTILLAS WHICH MAKES NO SENSE USING A SOPAPILLA TO EAT IT SINCE IT`S VERRY SIMILAR TO A TORTILLA.YET,IVE SEEN SOME USE IT ANYHOW,IVE ALSO SEEN CRACKERS USED,OR TORTILLAS.IT JUST DEPENDS ON YOUR OWN TASTE.NOW BBQ,THERES LOTS OF GOOD PLACES IN TEXAS LIKE VECIL MARES BBQ IN TAYLOR TX ORLOUIS C. HENLEY`S IN EAST TEXAS OR RICK ScHMIDT`S IN LOCKHART OR STUBB`S IN AUSTIN,TX. AND THE LIST JUST KEEPS ON GOING
15 - Bob
You are right about Vencil's (Taylor Cafe) in Taylor, Texas. I work only a block from Vencil's, and it definitly is the favorite of the locals in a town that boasts some of the best, and best-known pits in the country. The better-known Louis Mueller's and Mikeska's cant touch Vencil's quality and taste. But, contrary to your comments, the ribs are the best I've ever eaten - when they are good. The briskit, which recently won a "best in Texas" against all comers, can sometimes be tough. You are right-on about the sauce, but just add some of the "hot sauce" on the table to it and it is transformed. A couple of years ago USA Today named Vencil's Briskit plate one of the "top 20 meals in the world." I think the ambiance - and the beer - got to them.
16 - Dave Nalle
Bob, Mikeska's is indescribably awful. I'm not sure if I posted my review on BC. Just rereading the review is traumatic. Louis Mueller's is not bad. Their sausage is quite good and their brisket is passable.
I may have caught Vencil's ribs on a bad day. I'll have to go back and give them another try. But I'm glad we agree on the brisket. It's truly awesome.
Dave
17 - Clavos
Dave, Don't know if they're still there, or if they're still good, but when I lived in San Antonio, Tom's Ribs was pretty good, as was the Countyline, out on the Loop.
18 - John in Las Vegas
The Taylor Cafe has some of the best barbecue I've ever eaten, and I've been all over the country looking for the best. The brisket is beyond compare. The ribs were great and the sausage was outstanding.
These Texas vs. Tennessee vs. Carolina arguments are all ridiculous. If it's good, it's good. For Texas style barbecue, the Taylor Cafe is as good as it gets.
The place is rather hard to find, but well worth the effort.
Smitty's in Lockhart is pretty darn good, too, if you're ever down in Hill Country
19 - dkrw
lies. texxas has the best bbq.
20 - Suzanne G
This is the best place in the world for barbeque. I haven't had anything better and I have tried them all. The Taylor Cafe is very rich in history as well. Texas's barbeque hands down over Tennessee. Yuck!!