The Twilight Days of Heera Mandi
Happily, the morally righteous have reasons to smile. These are the final days of Heera Mandi. The place has started decaying like a rotten corpse. What had started off as a pampered district built next to a Mughal fort now lies uncared for in a filthy part of old Lahore.
Once upon a time, Mughal princes courted its virgins. The wealthy culture-loving families, from the feudal estates of North India, used to send their young sons to be trained under the guidance of the Heera Mandi ladies. They were expected to learn the style of fine Urdu conversation, to appreciate the nuances of Hindustani classical music and to get well versed in the art of lovemaking.
Once upon a time the ladies here were more sophisticated than the women of the most respected and rich families of the land. But now an eclipse has set in.
Times have changed. Heera Mandi is merely another red light district. Girls are patronized for quick sex sessions rather than for their poetry recitation. Courtesans have become call girls. Eminent people, with claims to middle-class respectability, no longer desire to be seen strolling in its streets. Even the ladies' chambers are shutting down.
The pleasure ladies are gradually leaving Heera Mandi quarters for the modern secretive flats of Defense and Gulberg. The thrill of midnight cruising is being replaced by deals made over mobile phones. A world is coming to an end, soon to be gone with the wind. Heera Mandi will become a fable, a fantasy, a dream house of the whores.
Epilogue
On our way back we stopped in a mud-built shack to have sweet, milky cardamom-flavored tea with oily fried goat testicles.
The night was growing old. The noise was quieting down. And the shadows were growing larger.
Article comments
— go to most recent comments1 - Victor Lana
"On our way back we stopped in a mud-built shack to have sweet, milky cardamom-flavored tea with oily fried goat testicles."
Now, come on, if this doesn't get the public in what will?
Just kidding. I found this piece to be extraordinarily well-written, with the subtle nuances that indicate the depth of the writer's craft. I thoroughly enjoyed reading this piece and feel saddened that such a place exists.
Of course, I have been to every continent except Antarctica, and I have seen shadows of what you describe here in cities everywhere. Judging by what I have encountered, the myth of the "happy hooker" is far removed from reality. Your piece only lends credence to that perception.
Thank you for an amazing read!
2 - Monica Singh
Well "Mayank Austen Soofi" i m very impressed from this article. Really ! First thing is "the way u used to express the feelings of other people is amazing. I mean sometimes the character of your article speak thereself only" and the second thing "i get lots of information about "Heera Mandi" now i can tell anybody what exactly "Heera Mandi" is......! third thing in my opinion ur this article can catch anybody attention towards "what miserable life prostitutes are living........."
3 - Ruvy in Jerusalem
I have to echo the compliments you richly deserve for this finely written article. The subject is timely (sex, like death, is always timely) and the tragedies of both sex and death, along with life's painful truths await the reader of this article.
Kol hakavód!! All honors to you!!
4 - Sonam Tsomo
As usual..well written... You experiencing such things and having them put in words actually helps most of the people, like us esp. who are ignorant about these kind of facts.
Thanks for introducing the realities of life, it was just a fiction to me before i read this piece.
5 - Anshu Tyagi
I have always heard about prostitutes and red light areas vaguely from people, but never have I had such a close insight into a whorehouse of yesteryears.
Your experiences have put me into a dilemma. This flesh trade would indeed continue "Heera Mandi" or not with technological assistance of mobile deals and trademark of a call girl for a prostitute, but will it actually bring an improvement in the living conditions of the women involved in it or lead them further to their doom.
After reading this article i feel I am stuck in a time warp.
6 - Tehman Lall from Lahore.
Mayank, exquisite and intimately written. The 'Mandi' couldn't have been described better in words. I do hear that its by far the most classically sustained and maintained red-light district in the country, keeping in-touch the 'darbari' heritage seen from the old alley-ways and tall sub-continental architectures. But I couldn't make the comparison from experience!
But you're right, it is a fading 'art' or artistic tradition, if you will. Now its gradually coming out of those overshadowed alley-ways and onto Lahore's main roads!
Come friday and saturday nights, one can witness(say once in two weekends) sickly sex-starved men on fancy wheels making deals on road sides in Gulberg and other densely populated commercial areas. Or the time-strapped lad could get the odd-job in his car seat on a dark residential street nearby!
What goes on behind closed doors in some social classes, I leave to your imagination. But make no mistake, that is the status quo.
Your observations and articles put alot of things in context for even a Lahore's resident, Mayank.
You should and will go places..
7 - Mayank Austen Soofi
Thank you Tehman. I have a blog called Pakistan Paindabad (at blogspot). I invite you to write for it. My blog needs persepctive on Pakistan from a Pakistani. You will be much welcomed. I assure you.
8 - ammar UK
its indeed a classic way of expressing the outcomes of the heera mandi.the author has depicted very nicely in comprehencisve words to show the glance of the red light district.
really lovely
9 - whore shud be banned
awsome man fuckin awsome
10 - Kaya
I thoroughly enjoyed reading this. My recent visit to Lahore took me to the famou are but only during the daylight hours where we had halwa puri at PHAJA'S (Fazal Haque).
Having recently read the book TABOO, I am tremendously intrigued by the whole Heera Mandi set up. What is represented historically and what it is today.
Thankyou for a sensitive, insightful, well written piece.
11 - zain
wow what a great article!! you must publish it in some paper stuff! great!!!!!!!!
12 - Angie
i enjoyed reading The Dancing Girls of Lahore.Louise Brown did a FANTASTIC job.this the first book I have read that i cried at its close.
my heart cries to all of the oppressed women of the world who are able despite the suffering have
been able to maintain an enduring spirit
13 - Nancy
Another great article, Mayank. Very evocative; I almost feel like I've been there myself. This should indeed be published.
14 - none
Hello, U didn`t show girls rates in your book. Show each girl rate with her pic.
15 - zohaibb jan
well i didnt studied by the lake of time.but the comments shows that it was good.
16 - Ahmad jamal amlik
good but it is ery short,like fozia saeed written in "taaboo".
Its news that one idian director sanjay bansali has purchased the rights of ur booka nd will make movie over this,
Graete Job.
Ahamd Jamal.
17 - SALMAN
IT IS GOOD BUT
WHAT ELSE CAN YOU SAY ABOUT THE MANDI
18 - abid sultan form india
i am very sad to read that how much u people happy to.u know that its not reffer the socity level of the muslims.what is going on in india.the aids ratio is grater then pakistan and the indian film industry is the cause i think.here in india i saw lot of that like places,plz think twice before u talk
19 - shahzad butt
what i had the been a little bit of experience of these things i found that this heera mandi is an a point of callgirls instead of dancing girls you can say it dancing girls bazar at least 10 years ago .
20 - ali
i want to see full sex
21 - gma pk
sex is a need of every man
22 - Hassan Masud (from Lahore)
This is surely a good piece written in as many good words, sometimes bordering on the edges of no-mans-land describing things and events and thoughts in a way most would deem outrageous or simply obscure yet portraying the locality and its inhabitants in a light that deserves a read.
I am myself from Lahore yet never actually laid my foot in this so-called-which-so-many-want-to-believe- "Harem Paradise". Probably a family trip to the nearby Anarkali Food Street for a few classy chiken haandis was enough for me then.
Good Work Mayank.
Regards,
Hassan Masud
GIK Institute of Engg.
23 - umar
my LUN is very hot and sexy plz try my LUN one time cheeseeeee BUND
24 - khalid
goood good very very good
25 - unknown
Very well written!
keep up the good work!