The path was narrow, but not straight. We climbed up and down as if walking in the old quarters of a hill resort. The people who inhabited the ancient houses in these streets looked suitably decent, making it difficult to believe we were approaching a red light district.
The Ground Beneath Their Feet
Some more steps, then a right turn, and we walked under an open sky. "This is Heera Mandi," Mian Naeem declared.
A crowd of boys cheered in a dimly lit tin-shed where a snooker table glowed under a bare light bulb. There were carts selling bananas, biryanis, and flowers. Brightly lit eateries with used chicken bones strewn on the floors were filled to the brim.
There was no lady standing under the lampposts soliciting clients. There was no man acting like a lady's agent. The shaky, frail-looking structures rising up on both sides of the street ahead were gloomily submerged in darkness. Their doors and windows were closed and the balconies were sullen and quiet.
We walked ahead and noticed an alley to the right. Two women stood a short distance away, whispering to each other. Their faces were cloaked with shadows. A thin man with a garland of chameli flowers wrapped around his wrists appeared from behind and overtook us with drunken steps.
Gradually the darkness began to lose its sheen. The street became livelier. As we penetrated deeper more doors were found open and more windows gave view to the lighted spaces inside. Mian Naeem pointed across to a room jutting out into the pathway. It had a large window and a most beautiful creation was peeking out from there.
She looked divine and more beautiful than the Indian actress Aishwarya Rai. With a pimple-free fair complexion and fine shaped lips, her eyes expressed eagerness and her hands signaled invitation. Her steps were as light as a bird as she hurried from the window towards the door.
Dressed in a white lehenga (a long embroidered skirt) and her anklet bells jingling music every time she moved, she looked all set to burst into a mujra (traditional dance of the courtesans). There were no creams, rouge, eyeliners, and powders disfiguring her face. A mild shade of maroon suggested the promise of a kiss from her slightly pouted lips.
Tempted by a Dancing Girl
Our eyes met and her face simmered of sentiments that suggested my walking away would break her heart. She looked pure, gracious, and yet highly amorous. It seemed as if I was the wine she was thirsting for all her life.






Article comments
— go to most recent comments1 - Victor Lana
"On our way back we stopped in a mud-built shack to have sweet, milky cardamom-flavored tea with oily fried goat testicles."
Now, come on, if this doesn't get the public in what will?
Just kidding. I found this piece to be extraordinarily well-written, with the subtle nuances that indicate the depth of the writer's craft. I thoroughly enjoyed reading this piece and feel saddened that such a place exists.
Of course, I have been to every continent except Antarctica, and I have seen shadows of what you describe here in cities everywhere. Judging by what I have encountered, the myth of the "happy hooker" is far removed from reality. Your piece only lends credence to that perception.
Thank you for an amazing read!
2 - Monica Singh
Well "Mayank Austen Soofi" i m very impressed from this article. Really ! First thing is "the way u used to express the feelings of other people is amazing. I mean sometimes the character of your article speak thereself only" and the second thing "i get lots of information about "Heera Mandi" now i can tell anybody what exactly "Heera Mandi" is......! third thing in my opinion ur this article can catch anybody attention towards "what miserable life prostitutes are living........."
3 - Ruvy in Jerusalem
I have to echo the compliments you richly deserve for this finely written article. The subject is timely (sex, like death, is always timely) and the tragedies of both sex and death, along with life's painful truths await the reader of this article.
Kol hakavód!! All honors to you!!
4 - Sonam Tsomo
As usual..well written... You experiencing such things and having them put in words actually helps most of the people, like us esp. who are ignorant about these kind of facts.
Thanks for introducing the realities of life, it was just a fiction to me before i read this piece.
5 - Anshu Tyagi
I have always heard about prostitutes and red light areas vaguely from people, but never have I had such a close insight into a whorehouse of yesteryears.
Your experiences have put me into a dilemma. This flesh trade would indeed continue "Heera Mandi" or not with technological assistance of mobile deals and trademark of a call girl for a prostitute, but will it actually bring an improvement in the living conditions of the women involved in it or lead them further to their doom.
After reading this article i feel I am stuck in a time warp.
6 - Tehman Lall from Lahore.
Mayank, exquisite and intimately written. The 'Mandi' couldn't have been described better in words. I do hear that its by far the most classically sustained and maintained red-light district in the country, keeping in-touch the 'darbari' heritage seen from the old alley-ways and tall sub-continental architectures. But I couldn't make the comparison from experience!
But you're right, it is a fading 'art' or artistic tradition, if you will. Now its gradually coming out of those overshadowed alley-ways and onto Lahore's main roads!
Come friday and saturday nights, one can witness(say once in two weekends) sickly sex-starved men on fancy wheels making deals on road sides in Gulberg and other densely populated commercial areas. Or the time-strapped lad could get the odd-job in his car seat on a dark residential street nearby!
What goes on behind closed doors in some social classes, I leave to your imagination. But make no mistake, that is the status quo.
Your observations and articles put alot of things in context for even a Lahore's resident, Mayank.
You should and will go places..
7 - Mayank Austen Soofi
Thank you Tehman. I have a blog called Pakistan Paindabad (at blogspot). I invite you to write for it. My blog needs persepctive on Pakistan from a Pakistani. You will be much welcomed. I assure you.
8 - ammar UK
its indeed a classic way of expressing the outcomes of the heera mandi.the author has depicted very nicely in comprehencisve words to show the glance of the red light district.
really lovely
9 - whore shud be banned
awsome man fuckin awsome
10 - Kaya
I thoroughly enjoyed reading this. My recent visit to Lahore took me to the famou are but only during the daylight hours where we had halwa puri at PHAJA'S (Fazal Haque).
Having recently read the book TABOO, I am tremendously intrigued by the whole Heera Mandi set up. What is represented historically and what it is today.
Thankyou for a sensitive, insightful, well written piece.
11 - zain
wow what a great article!! you must publish it in some paper stuff! great!!!!!!!!
12 - Angie
i enjoyed reading The Dancing Girls of Lahore.Louise Brown did a FANTASTIC job.this the first book I have read that i cried at its close.
my heart cries to all of the oppressed women of the world who are able despite the suffering have
been able to maintain an enduring spirit
13 - Nancy
Another great article, Mayank. Very evocative; I almost feel like I've been there myself. This should indeed be published.
14 - none
Hello, U didn`t show girls rates in your book. Show each girl rate with her pic.
15 - zohaibb jan
well i didnt studied by the lake of time.but the comments shows that it was good.
16 - Ahmad jamal amlik
good but it is ery short,like fozia saeed written in "taaboo".
Its news that one idian director sanjay bansali has purchased the rights of ur booka nd will make movie over this,
Graete Job.
Ahamd Jamal.
17 - SALMAN
IT IS GOOD BUT
WHAT ELSE CAN YOU SAY ABOUT THE MANDI
18 - abid sultan form india
i am very sad to read that how much u people happy to.u know that its not reffer the socity level of the muslims.what is going on in india.the aids ratio is grater then pakistan and the indian film industry is the cause i think.here in india i saw lot of that like places,plz think twice before u talk
19 - shahzad butt
what i had the been a little bit of experience of these things i found that this heera mandi is an a point of callgirls instead of dancing girls you can say it dancing girls bazar at least 10 years ago .
20 - ali
i want to see full sex
21 - gma pk
sex is a need of every man
22 - Hassan Masud (from Lahore)
This is surely a good piece written in as many good words, sometimes bordering on the edges of no-mans-land describing things and events and thoughts in a way most would deem outrageous or simply obscure yet portraying the locality and its inhabitants in a light that deserves a read.
I am myself from Lahore yet never actually laid my foot in this so-called-which-so-many-want-to-believe- "Harem Paradise". Probably a family trip to the nearby Anarkali Food Street for a few classy chiken haandis was enough for me then.
Good Work Mayank.
Regards,
Hassan Masud
GIK Institute of Engg.
23 - umar
my LUN is very hot and sexy plz try my LUN one time cheeseeeee BUND
24 - khalid
goood good very very good
25 - unknown
Very well written!
keep up the good work!