Have a good sniff

Aroma begins with an idea that pulled me up short:

"Smell is not simply a biological and psychological phenomenon ... Smell is cultural, hence a social and historical phenomenon. Odours are invested with cultural values and employed by societies as a means of a model for definiting and interacting with the world. The intimate, emotionally charged nature of the olfactory experience ensures that such value-coded odours are interiorized by members of society in a deeply personal way." (p. 3)

I like to think I'm pretty well switched on to the nature of cultural constructs, yet I'd never really thought about how my reaction to a "good" or a "bad" smell might have only a small biological component.

The first part of Aroma consists of a survey of the ancient history of smell, which contains some great tales, if lacking in an overall theme to tie it altogether. And indeed from this it is obvious that some elements of the sense of smell are probably biological, since we and the ancients shared many reactions of distaste, although Aroma never explores this fact. (There are some examples on my blog post here.

"Modern" Western ideas of appropriate smells for various classes of people developed only relatively recently, however, as the next section of the book explores. During the Renaissance strong scents of animal origin, including musk, civet and ambergris, were popular, but by the late 18th century these were consider too strong, too beastly. (Although the Empress Josephine bucked the trend by adoring musk.) (p. 71-73)

The second half of the book takes first a ethnographic turn, skipping across Asia, Africa and South America, before going sociological about the last century in the West.

It was disappointing because I'd been expecting a clearer methodological and theoretical approach and it never came. Overall this is a collection of anecdotes about smell from all parts of the world, with the thesis that smell is as much a cultural as a biological construct, but it never gets beyond its parts to make a real whole. If it was an undergraduate essay you'd say the sources were under-digested.

Continued on the next page Page 1 — Page 2

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Article Author: Natalie Bennett

Natalie is the editor of My London Your London, an independent cultural guide featuring theatre, gallery and museum reviews, and also blogs at Philobiblon, on history, culture, Green politics and all things feminist. …

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  • 1 - DrPat

    Mar 17, 2005 at 9:01 pm

    The term "accelerator toe" is documented in Hump Day 2003, No. 61:

    During the 1920's, some marketers were rather inventive with their terminology as they tried to sell their various remedies to life's many ailments. Here are a few of the "diseases" they tried to cure with their products...
    Bromodosis, which was odor caused by foot perspiration
    Homotosis, which was the absence of nice furniture
    Accelerator toe, presumably something afflicting motorists
    Office hips
    Vacation knees
    Ashtray breath
    Underarm offense
    Coalitosis, using coal to heat your home...

  • 2 - Natalie

    Mar 17, 2005 at 9:22 pm

    I want to know what WAS it, having never suffered from the affliction despite driving some serious long-distance stuff in my time.

    A stiff big toe, a broken nail on the little toe, a nasty fungal growth ...?

    And what was the solution that you were supposed to buy?

  • 3 - Fred Bortz

    Mar 18, 2005 at 5:37 pm

    This has inspired me to dust off a couple of old reviews and post them.

    Watch for reviews of "Why We Love" by Helen Fisher and Jacobson's Organ and the Remarkable Sense of Smell by Lyall Watson.

    Or read them on my website at
    http://www.scienceshelf.com/WhyWeLove.htm
    and
    http://www.scienceshelf.com/JacobsonsOrgan.htm

  • 4 - Natalie

    Mar 18, 2005 at 8:05 pm

    Thanks for those links Fred - it is interesting to balance this book with more biological approaches.

    As always, of course, the answer must lie in the middle, but which side of it?

    If attraction is biological, how do you explain the Dogons with their heavy scent of fried onion? They might make my mouth water, but would certainly be a sexual turnoff for me!

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