Snuggled between snow-capped mountains lies a city whose name rhymes with that of the Italian fashion citadel of Milan. The women there sometimes dress in every color imaginable — bright emerald, violet, butter-cup. The residents, both men and women, are extremely conscious of their looks. Obsession with achieving the ideal face makes plastic surgery a thriving industry. Getting a nose job done is hip. Showing off post-surgical bandages on noses at society parties is considered cool. Botox remains the latest rage.
The city life occasionally resembles the Parisian Left Bank scene, with couples lingering on in art-house cafes beyond eleven at night; the girls there exposing long stretches of calf and flashing pedicured toes in delicate sandals. The night life rocks with private parties in elegant white mansions situated in the elite northern districts. On the makeshift dance floors, the heels are always high, the skirts short, and the corners dark are where shots are consumed and hash is smoked. With every replaying of the favorite hits, the embraces get tighter.
In this city, young people plan raves in chat rooms and slip into parks to grope and fumble each other's bodies. Old rich people drink cocktails from gleaming crystals and old not-so-rich people learn to remain content with homemade vodka.
It is a place where man's basest instincts dominate the mindscape. Sexual innuendoes, double entendres, and dirty jokes are commonplace and Viagra is always available. But this is a crazy city and a crazier country.
Welcome to Tehran, the capital of the Islamic Republic of Iran.
A Mad Country and Madder People
Sandwiched between two violence-ridden countries - Iraq and Afghanistan - the people of Iran live a schizophrenic existence. The women might be cloaked with black chadors but the hottest new shop is a fake Victoria's Secret outlet selling silk negligees and lace underwear. The country might be officially an Islamic state but everybody cheats during the fasting season of Ramadan by secretly chomping on energy chocolates and smoking cigarettes.
The patriotic people might breathlessly chant "Death to America" slogans in public rallies but then throng to McDonald's-type fast food joints rumored to procure their buns from American burger franchises in the Persian Gulf. The Muslims of this land might be expected to bow to the west towards Mecca but its Yoga-minded citizens like to turn east to seek refuge with Indian spiritual gurus. The country is no IT superpower but was ranked number three in the world in the number of blogs in 2003.
Article comments
1 - Ruvy in Jerusalem
This was a great article, Mayank. You did up a book review to be a travel article. It was easy to see the Teheran you portay. The Old City (of Jerusalem) is similar in many ways...
2 - S.T.M
Yeah, fascinating stuff Mayank. Well done, great story.
3 - Mayank Austen Soofi
Thanks. And Ruvy: This was Azadeh Moaveni's Tehran. It was her portrayal. Not mine.
4 - Katie McNeill
I really enjoyed this, so well done. It really makes me want to go pick up the book now. Just another one to add to my list, I guess.
Thanks for the review!
5 - Anirudh
I wonder if they got the picture of islam right,American individualism is all about moral corrution , it is a state of no return, but the hardcore islamic response is too overpowering again.
As they say, There exists no heaven.
Too Verbose an article.
6 - Natalie Bennett
This article has been selected for syndication to Advance.net, which is affiliated with newspapers around the United States. Nice work!
7 - BhaskarJD, New Delhi
Well written, Mayank...Nice read...Now I want to read the book too...
8 - Mayank Austen Soofi
Bhaskar, since you sit so close you can always borrow it from me.
9 - Syed
Have you ever been to iran! Its not like that my brother.