The Arena Di Verona is the site of the largest open-air opera festival in the world. Built by the Romans, and once home to gladiatorial combat, during the summer months it accommodates 40,000 people a night, spread over fifty nights, who have come to see and hear some of the world's greatest opera. Having seen a spectacular Aida in this venue, I wondered how they would tackle Puccini’s Tosca, a smaller opera, in so grand a space. Not only was I surprised at the successful production, but I heard one of the best renditions of the opera I had ever seen or heard.

The set consisted of an iron fist with a cross attached, an arm with a drawn sword, and an immense bust of a warrior at center stage. Behind this was a large screen with what later turned out to be countless windows but which first appeared to be made of a matte-like material. For the final scene of Act I, a huge Giotto-like cross and large candelabras were brought on stage, followed by absolutely beautiful clerical costumes worn by some 40 bishops and other clergy who appeared in the opened windows behind the screen. The effect matched the splendor of the Aida the night before. All this was brilliantly designed by Hugo de Ana.

The best part of this Tosca was the singing. Scarpia was Gianfranco Mastromarino, a full-voiced baritone who effectively conveyed the villain's sadistic and religious bigotry. Cavaradossi was elegantly and passionately sung by the young Argentinean tenor Marcelo Alvarez, considered by some to be the next great tenor, and Tosca was performed by the beautiful Daniela Dessì, a consummate actress and a rich-voiced soprano.

The audience was so taken with Alvarez and Dessì that they demanded and got an encore of two of their famous arias (hers in Act II and his in Act III). I had heard of this happening but never before witnessed it. It was thrilling to see these great singers oblige us with a second course of Puccini's exciting score.

The orchestra was vigorously led by Giuliano Carella. He approached the score with the sure hand of a first-rate maestro. And despite the big sound produced by the huge (150+) orchestra, the singers could still be heard clearly, thanks to the amazing acoustics of the Arena Di Verona.