While most wine aficionados understand how important the soil is to the aroma and taste of wine, each of the nine wines tasted had an alarmingly different aroma/flavor profile, corresponding to the dramatically varied soils of Spain. In many cases you could both smell and taste the red clay, quartz, slate, and chalk present in the soil. And in the course of the tasting, I also experienced how dramatically different the same Tempranillo grape could taste from region to region, once again depending on the soil and the terroir.

Finally, though Spain produces some excellent white wines, it is best known for its reds. People who enjoy lighter courses such as fish might hesitate to serve a Spanish red, thinking it would overwhelm the dish. During the luncheon that followed at Per Se restaurant, the DOC Rioja wines Muga Aro 2005 (Fine Estates from Spain) and Vina El Pison 2005 (Eric Solomon Selections) both went perfectly with the fish, which was a saddle of monkfish. When pairing red wine with fish, however, it is important to note that the most important element is matching the texture, sauce, and manner of cooking the protein with the wine. In this case, the white monkfish was wrapped in Hobbs Shore’s Bacon and served with a “meaty” ragout of lentils du puy with seasoned root vegetables and a red wine vinegar sauce. The Muga wine had a delicious chocolate, plum, and fig finish that paired excellently with the dish, while the El Pison had an equally delicious and well-pairing finish of mocha and raspberry.

So the next time you pass the Spanish wine section of your local shop, or see a Spanish wine on the menu, consider giving it a try. More than ever before, you will be hard-pressed to find a more versatile, delicious, and value-centered wine in the market.