The first bottle of the night is Chateau Segonzac Vieilles Vignes 2001, Cru Bourgeois. The 2002 vintage made the "top 100" list of 100 wines priced $8-$25, selected by an independent jury in a blind tasting of over 300 wines. Living in Manhattan, I know (and trust) members of the jury, especially Roger Dagorn Master Sommelier, Chanterelle, who is passionate about wine education and a mentor to many.

Chateau Ségonzac, AOC First-Cotes-de-Blaye, has an extensive vineyard of 33 hectares in a single plot located on a slope in the limestone bedrock. Tasting notes include aroma of black, concentrated fruit and blackberry, plum, and deep fruit on the palate. Quite nice. As a certified sommelier myself, I'm intrigued by the way our wine server peels the plastic cap of the wine bottle in a way so as to form a receptacle for the cork.

With the help of the English party, who turn out to be expatriates who live in Blaye full time, we maneuver the menu. As a starter, I enjoy the fish soup. It is Marseilles style with a Blaye twist - a rich, red broth fashioned from the juices and bones of the local fish, served with accompaniments. My companion has duck foie gras, an enormous portion. As the evening progresses and we taste our way through delicious scallops and canard, we enjoy other wines from the region, including Chateau Haut Guilert Cote de Blaye 2002, with its dusty, raspberry nose, earth, and red cherry nose and similar flavors on the palate.

As we discuss and take notes on the wines of Blaye, a gentleman from the English party introduces himself and tells us we must visit straightaway the Maison du Vin in Blaye to enjoy complimentary tastings of the wines of the region.

Reservations are necessary here, in addition to a good appetite. The restaurant offers rare, traditional dishes and even with the inflated Euro, is quite a value. The wines are outstanding representations of the region.

l'Auberge Du Porche (both restaurant and inn)
Proprietors Christine et Dominique Lanfroid-Nazac
5 rue Ernest Régnier
33390 BLAYE
Tél: 05 57 42 22 69
Fax: 05 57 42 82 83
Email: contact@auberge-du-porche.com