REVIEW

Restaurant Review: Restaurant Guy Savoy, Las Vegas

Written by Marisa DVari
Published October 25, 2007

Not many foodies are lucky enough to experience the $290 tasting menu at Restaurant Guy Savoy (and that's without tip or tax or wine!). However, I've been curious to experience it since S. Irene Virbila gave it a mouthwatering review it in the LA Times a few months back. Hence the problem with Irene being such an excellent food reviewer - no matter how excellent the food and service, the more jaded the diner in terms of similar Michelin-rated restaurants experienced around the globe, the more difficult it will be to "wow."

Then again, you have the Vegas factor: it's challenging to be wowed at 9:15 pm on a Sunday night for a three and a half hour "Prestige" tasting menu, especially if you've been shopping in ancient Rome (the Forum shops at Caesar's Palace), lunching in Venice by the Grand Canal (Venetian), and touring the Pyramids and skyline of New York City along the way. Far too much stimulation.

However, the cuisine and service was perfect, even though after midnight we were the only ones in the once-full dining room. We ordered Billecart Salmon, Brute Rose champagne with the hors d'oeuvre, and sipped it with the oyster in ice gelee and shots of caviar that followed. The light, delicate, pale pink/silver champagne had a frothy mousse and aroma of wild strawberry, framboise, and raspberries, with a racy finish and enough acidity to stand up to the briny oysters.

Main lobster with heirloom baby carrots and orange and star anise (excellent, excellent, my favorite dish) and the following course of roasted dover sole with a wild mushroom crust was paired with a rich, dry, mineral infused Domaine Francoise Mikulski Les Poruzots first cru.

Seared foie gras en cocotte, served with autumn winter vegetables, followed by an artichoke and black truffle soup, was paired with a Charles Joguet Close de la Didterie from Chinon in the Loire valley, a dark and smoky wine made from cabernet franc grapes. Of course, the fantastic cheese selection was followed by chocolate fondant.

There were ten courses in all, all beautifully presented and prepared. Chef Savoy's son Franck came around to welcome us, a very nice gesture, as his father was out of town.

Aside from the late hour, one of the key distractions for me, at least in terms of really focusing on the wines and the food, was that I was a guest at this meal of a friend entertaining several clients on business. Stimulating conversation was the purpose of the evening.

On my own dime, I could have questioned waiters about the preparation, made my own wine selections, and taken more copious notes. Wait until my next trip to Las Vegas, when I'll return and see what their 1500-item wine list is all about!

Curious to discover the world’s best wines under $15 -- and how to pair them with dinner at home? View fun, entertaining articles at A Wine Story and be sure to sign up for our monthly complimentary newsletter, where Marisa D'Vari, a Certified Sommelier, reveals tasting notes and great food pairings for value-for-the-dollar wine in your local wine shop. For a limited time, new subscribers receive a special report titled "How to Order Wine in Restaurants". To access the sign-up page, just visit A Wine Story.

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Restaurant Review: Restaurant Guy Savoy, Las Vegas
Published: October 25, 2007
Type: Review
Section: Tastes
Filed Under: Culture: Travel, Review, Tastes: Food and Drink
Writer: Marisa DVari
Marisa DVari's BC Writer page
Marisa DVari's personal site
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