"I can't think of a better way to spend my birthday," said a young woman at the gorgeously decorated Chef's table at the Waldorf Hotel. When you think of the Waldorf Hotel, you think of luxury - of sterling silverware, fine bone china, and of course, delicious food. After all, this is where the Waldorf Salad, the epitome of every elegant ladies' lunch, was born.

To dine at New York's Waldorf Hotel is an elegant treat. The dinning room and cuisine is just as fabulous as you'd expect, yet the hotel is now surpassing expectations with this season's "Chef Table Dinner Series," starring their own executive chef John Doherty, author of the new The Waldorf-Astoria Cookbook.

What's a Chef Table, you might wonder? In fine restaurants, chefs often have a table in the kitchen so guests can see their cuisine prepared and feel like a culinary insider. Chef Doherty takes the concept several steps higher by orchestrating a dazzling presentation for the eye, including the most lavish spread of hors d'oeuvres I've ever seen, including tiny glasses of freshly made corn soup (the last of the season) topped with warm buttery lobster, "lollipops" of seared tuna, foie gras, and many more attractively arranged on a gorgeously decorated table in front of a handful of white-clad sous chefs.

As you sample them, you can actually watch the chef prepare and cook refills. At the same time, waiters offer sparkling champagne from highly polished silver salvers. One would think this abundant spread of cuisine was the "chef's dinner" in itself, so restrain yourself.

Once you sit down at the prettily set tables, you will find five courses to come, each paired with a spectacular wine chosen by the hotel's sommelier Christophe Orlarei. "I put corn and figs on the menu because in a week, they'll be out of season," says Doherty, citing his philosophy about using the freshest seasonal ingredients he can find from his purveyors.

The first course, acorn squash soup, was served with roasted fig and fennel-garlic pastry and paired with Benzinger Sauvignon Blanc from California, 2003. Next came corn and jalapeno risotto with the most gorgeous, plum scallop I've seen (carmelized to absolute perfection), accompanied by candied tomoato and crisp bacon. This dish was paired with Sequia Grove chardonnay from Carneros, California.

Before the smoked salmon with watercress salad and parmesan fried egg could be served, however, the sous chefs needed help. "We usually pick the most enthusiastic guests to help us plate a course," smiled Chef Doherty, giving my guest and myself gloves.