One of the trendiest wine regions these days is Australia, known for its wallet-friendly prices, appeal to popular taste, and buzz-building marketing campaigns. (Yellowtail Shiraz, anyone?) While most Americans know Australia for its under-$10 wines and think of "Australian Wine" in generic terms, this vast country is actually divided into areas called Geographic Indicators (GI), which separate the various regions by soil, climate, and topography the way America separates wine regions into American Viticulture Areas (AVA).

Western Australia (WA) differs from the bulk-wine producing regions in most of Australia in that artisanal and boutique wineries thrive here. Most wineries are condensed in the southwestern portion of the State. If you look at a map of Australia, you will recognize the region as it resembles a pig's snout. These wine regions include the Swan District close to the State capital of Perth and, further south, the regions of Peel, Geographe, Blackwood Valley, Pemberton, Manjimup, Great Southern and the well-known Margaret River.

Although the Margaret River contributes only three per cent of the country's wine grapes, it commands over 20 per cent of today's premium wine market. The region comprises the rolling hills of the Leeuwin-Naturaliste Ridge, between Cape Naturaliste and Cape Leeuwin. To the west is the Indian Ocean, which provides a moderating effect on the climate, meaning that extreme summer and winter temperatures do not affect vineyards. Humidity levels are ideal during the growing period, and the combination of climate, soil, and viticulture practices leads to consistently high quality fruit of intense flavor.

The Margaret River is considered one of the top regions for Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon. As it is located close to the ocean, the water gives the area a warming effect. A great example is the delicious 2004 Leuuwin Estate Art Series Chardonnay ($79), a deep gold-colored wine with a perfumed nose and excellent finish. A winning example of Cabernet Sauvignon from the region is the 2004 Thompson Estate ($35), an herbaceous wine with herbal notes.

Beyond its spectacular wines, the Margaret River is increasingly seen as a popular tourist destination with a year-round friendly climate, fantastic beaches, and dramatic landscapes. Alas, its distance means you have to travel two days by plane just to get there. Happily, a virtual visit is as close as your nearest wine store, for when you open a bottle of Margaret River wine you can savor the terroir right in the glass.