Real Italians serving up exceptional mom and pop Italian fare in a charming atmosphere is a rare find. Dallasites, I refer your cravings to Luigi's Italian Cafe. Located on Goliad Street in Rockwall, this sizeable family-operated restaurant offers an impressive menu with most entrees under ten dollars.

The sound of Italian accents on the sales floor and in the kitchen most importantly enhances the elegant, yet modest ambiance. Most of the softly played music is by Frank Sinatra. A small, tasteful bar is at the front of the building, while one of civilization's last smoking sections is in the back.

The menu boasts more than manicotti and some of the best pizza in town. A wide selection of savory northern Italian entrees is the true strength of Luigi's. I opted for the chicken Albanese, which is spaghettini and sautéed mushrooms in a brandy cream sauce served over a generous portion of chicken breast. Just for kicks, I ordered it with capers.

The typically delicious bread was pathetic that evening. It was a bit dry and lacking in Parmesan, olive oil, and basil. The Albanese, on the other hand, was decadent. The brandy cream sauce exuded a divine, seductive aroma. From the second my plate hit the table I began to fantasize. As billows of steam rose from the dish, I dove into a puddle of sauce with that lackluster bread. Having an ample amount of brandy, the sauce was creamy, rich, and utterly satisfying. This is one place where northern Italian dishes are not booze deficient.

An abundance of perfect mushrooms made me forget that the smattering of capers was on the bland side. The pasta was perfectly al dente. As I cut the tender chicken with my thin fork, the tines seemed to bend a bit. Better silverware would be nice. The tastes, smells, and textures of this dinner simply induced euphoria. The entree was quite filling, but I had tiramisu nonetheless. The tiramisu was velvety and quite rich. Unfortunately, presentation won out over taste, as squeeze-bottle chocolate syrup had been drizzled atop. The overly sweet taste of this defilement certainly detracted from the dessert's true flavor.

The service was good and the meal was one to be remembered. I did not have coffee, but I caught a whiff of some being poured that smelled offensively old. I glanced at the practical wine list and took note of the decent prices. Luigi's has some of the best and most affordable Italian food in the metroplex. Of course, the secret is out and the place can get crowded and noisy. Italian food is one of life's greatest indulgences, and Luigi's is among my all-time favorites.