In the 1980's, Los Angeles was the foodie center of the world, soon to be usurped by Manhattan in the early 90s. Now, in the new millennium, the culinary hot-spot of the moment is Boston, formerly the home of "the bean and the cod."

Radius, the financial district, has been getting heat for years, both for the quality of the cuisine and the steep prices. At salons on Boston's trendy Newbury Street and in State Street boardrooms, tongues wag (brag?) about how they finally were granted an impossible-to-get reservation, but were affronted by the tiny portions.

I booked a table, determined to see what was up. Radius is conveniently located in the heart of Boston’s Financial District, with many ATMs in sight. (You'll need them if you run out of cash, easy with these prices.) It's a sophisticated space, hip without being trendy, yet relaxed at the same time in a "zen meets portfolio manager" sort of way. The staff is expertly trained and wears uniforms suggestive of a new-age Armani.

As we settled in, I checked out the eclectic crowd. A young, great looking guy with a goatee spent the night whispering into the ear of his flame-haired girlfriend to my left. Two men in suits discussed mergers in hushed tones to my right, while a few tables away, a pair of women eyed them with interest. No dot-comers in evidence, but the night was young. It's fun to sip a cocktail and take in the imaginative menu.

A prix-fixe menu is offered, and if your credit card line is high enough, it's the right way to go. Our meal began with an ounce of Ossetra Caviar crowning a mound of tuna tartare perfumed with the subtle scent of Rosemary, and another appetizer of sweet red and golden beets with gloriously caramelized Chanterelle Mushrooms.

Roasted Local Striped Bass, served with fresh yellow and white summer corn, smoky chanterelles, bits of smoked bacon, and shallots was excellent, as was roasted East Coast halibut, flaky and flavorful. The seared Maine scallop was a work of art in itself, a fat, juicy, glistening white scallop, perfectly cooked, resting atop a mound of confetti colored vegetables.

I could see how people might think the portions small but I was personally fine with it. As for being expensive, with a multi-course menu, cocktails, wine, and gratuity, dinner for two can approach $300. But this is increasingly standard in top-level business dining, and Radius does its best to make sure that you and your guest receive value.

Guests with reservations are seated promptly, servers are quick to take orders for cocktails, and overall, the experience is pleasant and seamless. Given its location, ambiance, and pricing, it's a great way to celebrate a big win in the market or celebrate a dot.com deal!