REVIEW

Book Review: Chocolate: A Bittersweet Saga of Dark and Light

Written by Lisa Alvarado
Published March 18, 2007

In this scintillating narrative, acclaimed foodie Mort Rosenblum delves into the complex world of chocolate. From the mole poblano — chilli-laced chicken with chocolate--of ancient Mexico to the contemporary French chocolatiers who produce the palets d'or, bite-sized, gold-flecked bricks of dark chocolate — to the vast empires of Hershey, Godiva, and Valrhona, Rosenblum follows the chocolate trail the world over. He visits cacao plantations, meets with growers, buyers, makers, and tasters, and investigates the dark side of the chocolate trade as well as the enduring appeal of its product.

Yes, our kind is everywhere... I'm a foodie, too. I watch the Food Network like it's porn. Seriously, have you seen Nigella Lawson and Jamie Oliver, watched their nimble fingers, their deft touch as they make the stuff that dreams are made of? Delicious food, subtly prepared, engages all the senses, just like good sex. And like sex, most of us have a particular twist, a certain something that sets us over the edge. My particular kink is chocolate.... smooth, silky, sweet, or slightly bitter. I can take a nibble and slowly let it dissolve on my tongue, and the rush of flavor — flower petal/sugar/dark woods/midnight — overwhelms me.

And I'm not alone either; check out Milt Rosenblum's odyssey with my beloved. But before you do, I want to let you in on the fact that Chocolate is no mere confection. Rosenblum does offer an engaging travelogue featuring the voluptuous temptress as the centerpiece. But it's also a character study of of the people who absolutely live for the perfect cacao high. There's Chloe Doutre-Roussel, the chocolate doyenne, who by force of will, expert knowledge, and her own Gallic brand of sexiness, was able to convince the Brits to augment with glorious French confiserie that waxy brick of theirs, proffered as a treat to an unknowing populace.

Then there's Claudio da Principe, whose obsession with growing the best bean and to create a fair trade chocolate finca led him to a South American pilgrimage; an odyssey of intrigue, duplicity and greed worthy of Herzog and Aguirre the Wrath of God. Shot through this confection of a book is also a fascinating micro history of how the Old World "conquered" the "New" World. Early in the book, Rosenblum pays homage in Oaxaca at the altar of Estela Luna, where she holds court as chef, priestess and historian, conjuring up mole exquisito, and making the point that perhaps Mexico was not conquered after all.

And there is the redoubtable Mr. Rosenblum himself, intrepid explorer, traveling the globe for that ultimate high. Ah, such sacrifice in the pursuit of knowledge...

Lisa Alvarado is a poet, novelist, and performance artist. She is the author of The Housekeeper's Diary, Reclamo, and Sister Chicas. In 2007, Sister Chicas was the 2nd place winner of the Mariposa/International Latino Book Award for Best 1st Novel in English. She also shares her views and literary criticism on La Bloga.
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Book Review: Chocolate: A Bittersweet Saga of Dark and Light
Published: March 18, 2007
Type: Review
Section: Books
Filed Under: Books: Food
Writer: Lisa Alvarado
Lisa Alvarado's BC Writer page
Lisa Alvarado's personal site
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