It has the largest French-speaking population outside Paris, but it's not Marseille; it has some of the most spectacular Oriental gardens in the world, but it's not Tokyo; and its gay village is the biggest in North America, but it's not San Francisco.

The longer you linger in Montreal, the more surprising it gets. Located on a triangular island beside the mighty St Lawrence Seaway, Montreal has come a long way from its origins as a 17th century fur-trading post. It's now the biggest city in Quebec, with a
population of over three million.

At first glance, the swaggering skyscrapers and grid-patterned streetscapes of Montreal could pass for any North American city. Closer inspection reveals the big difference: most of what happens in Montreal happens in French.

Language has long been a hot potato in this part of Canada, with the French-speaking community defending itself against the rising tide of English. But tourists rarely get caught up in the war of words, and even if your attempts to go native leave you tongue-tied, you can quickly drop back into English without penalty. In fact, you're more likely to receive an apology than a reprimand as soon as Montrealers find you floundering in French.

In any case, Montreal's French connection transcends language. You can hear it in the music, taste it in the food, and in the old town you can see it in the architecture.

The elegant city hall is a like an Hotel de Ville that's been transported from France. Perhaps that's why Charles de Gaulle was inspired to declare freedom for Quebec from its balcony. It overlooks Place Jacques Cartier, named in honour of the first European to explore this part of Canada. Lined with souvenir shops and restaurants, the square (actually more of an oblong) is a suitably spacious space for events all year round, from summer jazz concerts to Halloween horror shows. After years of neglect, the old town of Montreal is enjoying a renaissance. Its cobbled streets and stone buildings have been spruced up, and the Bonsecours market, with its distinctive silvery dome, has been transformed into a showcase for Montreal's most talented visual artists.

The old town is also home to Notre Dame Cathedral. Looking more like Westminster Abbey than its Parisian namesake, the neo-Gothic basilica is well worth a visit, whatever your religious leanings. The interior is a blaze of colour. Its stained glass windows depict the city's history, while the magnificent altar-piece is set against a star-spangled azure sky. A smaller chapel behind the altar is no less impressive, so it's hardly surprising that it was here that Quebec's patron saint, Celine Dion, took her wedding vows in 1994.