REVIEW

Book Review: Bitter Chocolate: Investigating the Dark Side of the World's Most Seductive Sweet by Carol Off

Written by Bonnie
Published January 11, 2007
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Off notes that Unilever now owns Ben & Jerry's, Heinz is behind Mountain Sun, Health Valley and others, while Tyson Foods is the parent company for Nature's Farm Organic.

As an educational overview, Bitter Chocolate succeeds with its tour of colonialism through the ages via the particulars of the cocoa business. Yet, for those looking for permission or prescriptives about chocolate consumption, the book might prove maddening. Off seems, ultimately, to be throwing her hands up and declaring, "Biz will be biz."

She states that the cocoa industry is based in injustice, yet she doesn't suggest consumer action, doesn't offer any suggestions to chocolate-lovers wanting to assuage their guilt, nor does she take the step of proposing that we should stop eating chocolate if we want to sleep better at night. Off's final thoughts have the complexity of a fine truffle:

The story of chocolate has a lot to do with what is fair. ... Fairness or its grown-up sibling, justice, demanded a better deal for the people who produced the raw aterial for luxuries like chocolate. But they were ignored or vanquished by powers greater than their moral recititude. They were up against elites and the ethical insensitivity of the marketplace. The greatest impediment of all was the moral ambguity of a consuming public that has always been quick to decry injustice, but also deermined to enjoy the fruits of the earth at the lowest prices possible. The right to do so is still considered, by many consumers, to be only fair.
As with so many things, it would seem that nothing is as simple as fair's fair. Off leaves it to the reader to decide whether that ambiguity is something they can stomach.

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Bonnie writes about books every Thursday at Fourth-Rate Reader, about everything else at Signifying Nothing, and sometimes she resorts to pictures. She lives in Toronto.
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Book Review: Bitter Chocolate: Investigating the Dark Side of the World's Most Seductive Sweet by Carol Off
Published: January 11, 2007
Type: Review
Section: Books
Filed Under: Tastes: Food and Drink, Books: Politics and Affairs, Books: Nonfiction, Books: Food
Writer: Bonnie
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#1 — January 11, 2007 @ 19:42PM — Natalie Bennett [URL]

This article has been selected for syndication to Advance.net, which is affiliated with newspapers around the United States. Nice work!

#2 — January 12, 2007 @ 11:29AM — Rodney North [URL]

(full disclosure: I'm a worker-owner & Board Director at Equal Exchange, a U.S. based worker cooperative that imports and sells organic, Fair Trade Certified chocolate and cocoa, www.equalexchange.coop)

As you might expect at Equal Exchange we have followed the cocoa/child labor scandal very closely. Consequently we think that 95% of "Bitter Chocolate" is a fantastic, badly needed work of morally-informed journalism. The 5% we think is lacking is what Bonnie was referring to, that the author fails to offer the reader any meaningfully way to respond to the gross injustices that she so thoroughly documents. This is a pity as those alternatives (organic & Fair Trade options) do exist. But I'll get to that in a second.

One reason that "Bitter Chocolate" is so important is that Off has gone to great lengths to uncover a story that no one else has really looked at since 2002. And even the work done back then pails in comparison to this book. For understandable, but regrettable, reasons the media (both alternative and mainstream) did not & still have not followed up on the child labor story (or other ugly parts of the cocoa trade)since 2002 and have either regurgitated the industry's assurances that something was being done, or have put out critical, but thin, articles that offered no new information, and certainly have not provided the grand expose that Ms. Off has put together.

All along I've suspected the worse of the industry, but she revealed that it is so much more tainted than even I could have imagined - and the persistence of exploited child labor is only part of the problem.

Re: the missing 5%
Ms. Off does provide a chapter near the end that touches on Fair Trade, but it's bizarrely lop-sided and gives the reader a distorted, incomplete and strangely negative picture of the efficacy and potential of this ethical alternative. Basically, she goes to Belize to look at the co-op that was the first to export to the Fair Trade market and finds a number of short-comings. Unfortunately she just leaves it at that and casts a pall over Fair Trade in general. What she did not do was to tell the readers that this first Fair Trade project has since spawned about a dozen more Fair Trade farmer-importer partnerships and that most of them are working much more effectively, and on a much bigger scale.

Nor does she tell readers of how the Fair Trade option is creating change within the marketplace and how it has already demonstrated in other commodities, especially coffee, that consumers can use the power of their pocketbook to nudge corporations to clean up their act (albeit slowly).

With that one caveat we strongly recommend the book.

~ Rodney North

#3 — February 2, 2007 @ 10:23AM — Renee Sweany [URL]

I work with Endangered Species Chocolate and couldn't agree more with Rodney from Equal Exchange. There are certainly options available that support a fair and ethical chocolate market.

To that end, Endangered Species Chocolate is firmly committed to purchasing only 100 percent ethically traded cacao. ESC's all-natural cacao grows in Nigeria, and our organic cacao is sourced from the Conacado Co-op in the Dominican Republic. Farmers determine a fair price for their own crops. All ESC cacao is grown on family-owned properties, helping to sustain the habitats and communities in which they operate. The cacao is grown in the natural shade of rich, diverse forests. By purchasing ESC's chocolate products, consumers help support sustainable forest farmland and the species that flourish there. Further, because ESC purchases ethically traded cacao, customers can rest assured farmers are working in humane conditions and being paid a fair price for their crop.

In February 2006, four ESC team members traveled to Nigeria's Ikom regions, where our all-natural cacao is harvested. While observing ethical trade in action, ESC also sponsored the
provision of school supplies for local children and the installation of water pumps for the two local farming villages.

Through summer 2006, ESC's organic products had been Fair Trade Certified through TransFair USA. The company now dedicates the dollars previously earmarked for TransFair certification to directly support the farmers in the Conacado Co-op, where ESC sources its organic cacao. This sourcing program ensures the cacao farmers in that co-op receive a fair wage.

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