Book Review: Bitter Chocolate: Investigating the Dark Side of the World's Most Seductive Sweet by Carol Off
Published January 11, 2007
A few years ago, a friend of mine stopped eating chocolate. It was a moral decision, an ethical one. Not only did he resist the lure of the office vending machine, he would demur if you offered him some of your chocolate unless it was fair trade. I admired his conviction.
Recently, when I told him I was reading Bitter Chocolate: Investigating the Dark Side of the World's Most Seductive Sweet, he looked worried. He thought the chocolate problem was a thing of the past. It's true; after being under the spotlight at the millennium, the issue of slave labour in cocoa was back in the shadows. Consumer awareness was up, legislative initiatives were afoot, and everything seemed to be resolved. My friend went back to eating chocolate.
Carol Off still isn't convinced that all is right on cocoa plantations. The journalist, best known for her work with the CBC, had heard reports that Côte D'Ivoire's chocolate-covered success stories hid terrible conditions of child labour. As she investigated she discovered toothless laws, self-policing industry, corporate-funded non-governmental organizations (NGOs), the disappearance of a journalist, fiction posing as news, and kids who still think a few months of cocoa farming will earn them enough money to buy themselves a bicycle and ride it home again.
The history of chocolate is laced with blood. Off outlines how cocoa came to the Western world, from la noche triste ("cocoa production survived because it was —literally— money growing on trees") to chocolate's medicinal uses to the marketing of chocolate as a token of romantic love.
Off also reminds us that the latest slavery controversy is hardly cocoa's first. In the early days of mass production, Quakers dominated both the British and the American cocoa industry. Cadbury in the UK, and Hershey in the US were both family-run businesses that professed to uphold their religious moral standards as part of their business practices.
Both companies formed idyllic company towns: Bournville, on the south side of Birmingham, England, and Hershey, Pennsylvania. The Quakers were well-known abolitionists, but when Henry Nevison reported on the slave-like conditions endured by the cocoa industry's "contract labour," Cadbury (a Quaker company) did nothing - at least not at first.
A number of contemporary scholars... have concluded that it was the lack of alternative bean sources and not skepticism over Nevison's report that made the Cadburys delay action for so long. The appalling corollary is that the Quaker cocoa companies of Britain dragged their feet and dodged the issue for nine years before they finally stopped using slave cocoa.Some estimates say that up to eight million Aricans died under the "contract labour" conditions of the turn of the century.
- Book Review: Bitter Chocolate: Investigating the Dark Side of the World's Most Seductive Sweet by Carol Off
- Published: January 11, 2007
- Type: Review
- Section: Books
- Filed Under: Tastes: Food and Drink, Books: Politics and Affairs, Books: Nonfiction, Books: Food
- Writer: Bonnie
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Comments
(full disclosure: I'm a worker-owner & Board Director at Equal Exchange, a U.S. based worker cooperative that imports and sells organic, Fair Trade Certified chocolate and cocoa, www.equalexchange.coop)
As you might expect at Equal Exchange we have followed the cocoa/child labor scandal very closely. Consequently we think that 95% of "Bitter Chocolate" is a fantastic, badly needed work of morally-informed journalism. The 5% we think is lacking is what Bonnie was referring to, that the author fails to offer the reader any meaningfully way to respond to the gross injustices that she so thoroughly documents. This is a pity as those alternatives (organic & Fair Trade options) do exist. But I'll get to that in a second.
One reason that "Bitter Chocolate" is so important is that Off has gone to great lengths to uncover a story that no one else has really looked at since 2002. And even the work done back then pails in comparison to this book. For understandable, but regrettable, reasons the media (both alternative and mainstream) did not & still have not followed up on the child labor story (or other ugly parts of the cocoa trade)since 2002 and have either regurgitated the industry's assurances that something was being done, or have put out critical, but thin, articles that offered no new information, and certainly have not provided the grand expose that Ms. Off has put together.
All along I've suspected the worse of the industry, but she revealed that it is so much more tainted than even I could have imagined - and the persistence of exploited child labor is only part of the problem.
Re: the missing 5%
Ms. Off does provide a chapter near the end that touches on Fair Trade, but it's bizarrely lop-sided and gives the reader a distorted, incomplete and strangely negative picture of the efficacy and potential of this ethical alternative. Basically, she goes to Belize to look at the co-op that was the first to export to the Fair Trade market and finds a number of short-comings. Unfortunately she just leaves it at that and casts a pall over Fair Trade in general. What she did not do was to tell the readers that this first Fair Trade project has since spawned about a dozen more Fair Trade farmer-importer partnerships and that most of them are working much more effectively, and on a much bigger scale.
Nor does she tell readers of how the Fair Trade option is creating change within the marketplace and how it has already demonstrated in other commodities, especially coffee, that consumers can use the power of their pocketbook to nudge corporations to clean up their act (albeit slowly).
With that one caveat we strongly recommend the book.
~ Rodney North
I work with Endangered Species Chocolate and couldn't agree more with Rodney from Equal Exchange. There are certainly options available that support a fair and ethical chocolate market.
To that end, Endangered Species Chocolate is firmly committed to purchasing only 100 percent ethically traded cacao. ESC's all-natural cacao grows in Nigeria, and our organic cacao is sourced from the Conacado Co-op in the Dominican Republic. Farmers determine a fair price for their own crops. All ESC cacao is grown on family-owned properties, helping to sustain the habitats and communities in which they operate. The cacao is grown in the natural shade of rich, diverse forests. By purchasing ESC's chocolate products, consumers help support sustainable forest farmland and the species that flourish there. Further, because ESC purchases ethically traded cacao, customers can rest assured farmers are working in humane conditions and being paid a fair price for their crop.
In February 2006, four ESC team members traveled to Nigeria's Ikom regions, where our all-natural cacao is harvested. While observing ethical trade in action, ESC also sponsored the
provision of school supplies for local children and the installation of water pumps for the two local farming villages.
Through summer 2006, ESC's organic products had been Fair Trade Certified through TransFair USA. The company now dedicates the dollars previously earmarked for TransFair certification to directly support the farmers in the Conacado Co-op, where ESC sources its organic cacao. This sourcing program ensures the cacao farmers in that co-op receive a fair wage.



This article has been selected for syndication to Advance.net, which is affiliated with newspapers around the United States. Nice work!