Central Texas BBQ: Taylor Cafe
Published November 05, 2005
As usual I spared no expense and tried to get a little bit of everything on a customized plate full of goodies. The standout items on the menu were the beef brisket and the sausage. The brisket is what Taylor Cafe is most known for and it lives up to its reputation. It's extraordinarily tender and flavorful. Apparently it's cooked for much longer than brisket usually is and I suspect it's also marinated before cooking. The result is a lot like a good quality pot roast, but with wood smoke flavor added. It's truly excellent, certainly one of the best briskets I've tasted. The sausage is also very good. It's a rough-ground big-link sausage remiscent of Elgin sausage, but not too greasy and loaded with black pepper which really gives it a memorable flavor. The turkey sausage is also good, though it lacks the character of the regular sausage. The ribs are the lowpoint. They're tough and somewhat vinegary. I literally couldn't eat more than a couple of bites. I'd also avoid the barbeque sauce which is heavy on the molasses and way too sweet. A small dab might be okay on a sandwich, but that's about it.
So the next time you're driving down Texas Highway 79 - which I'm sure you do all the time - pass by Hutto and take a left at the bizarre exit that says Granger but actually goes to downtown Taylor. Keep an eyeout for the Taylor Cafe on the left as you take the bridge over the railyard and stop in for a brisket sandwich and a sausage wrap and maybe stick around for a beer. There are few finer ways to enjoy classic Texas barbeque in a friendly small town smokery.
Dave
Dave Nalle has been a magazine editor, freelance writer, capitol hill staffer, game designer and taught college history for many years. He is Vice Chairman of the Republican Liberty Caucus, working to promote liberty in the GOP. He designs fonts for a living and lives with his family just outside Austin. You can find his writings on politics and culture at Republic of Dave, on conspiracy theories at IdiotWars and on design and fonts at The Scriptorium.
- Central Texas BBQ: Taylor Cafe
- Published: November 05, 2005
- Type: Review
- Section: Culture
- Part of a feature: Central Texas Barbeque
- Writer: Dave Nalle
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Comments on this articleComments
Do I have to go to Tennessee to do a comparison. Ick. I hear Memphis has good BBQ, but it's going to be destroyed by a tidal bore after the giant earthquake.
Dave
I hear fear of the apocalypse gives the meat an extra kick.
Not really. I just had a taste at the Memphis Int'l Airport when I had a layover there. I just knew of its reputation, and my co-workers from San Antonio loves Memphis BBQ.
If you're in San Antonio you should head out west to Cooper's in Llano sometime. Have their pork chops. Awesome stuff.
Dave
Who on earth eats crackers with barbecue? Only a Texan!! They also eat crackers with enchiladas. Apparently they don't know about sopapillas. Best barbecue...Tennessee or Texas? Tennessee hands down!
Only a very limited number of oldtimers still eat crackers with mexican food. And sopapillas are a desert food not something you eat with enchiladas.
Dave
In New Mexico, sopapillas are served to be eaten with enchiladas or saved to be eaten drizzled with honey later. If you want some real mexican food, forget Texas and Arizona and come to New Mexico.
If you want some real barbecue, go to Tennessee!
I'm not big on BBQ but your article is certainly tempting.
I live in Central Texas, and I am spoiled with great BBQ all the time.
I've NEVER had bad BBQ since I've lived here.
In fact I don't think I have ever had "bad" BBQ.
Matt, there's bad BBQ everywhere if you don't order the local specialty. Just go into any BBQ joint and order Pork Loin if you want something flavorless and tough.
Dave
THERE IS NO WRONG WAY TO EAT YOUR BBQ OR MEXICAN FOOD.DEPENDING ON WHAT PART OF THE COUNTRY YOUR FROM,THAT`S WHAT YOU`RE USED TO.I`M FROM SOUTH TEXAS.WAY SOUTH,RIGHT NEXT TO THE BORDER.ENCHILADAS ARE WRAPED IN TORTILLAS WHICH MAKES NO SENSE USING A SOPAPILLA TO EAT IT SINCE IT`S VERRY SIMILAR TO A TORTILLA.YET,IVE SEEN SOME USE IT ANYHOW,IVE ALSO SEEN CRACKERS USED,OR TORTILLAS.IT JUST DEPENDS ON YOUR OWN TASTE.NOW BBQ,THERES LOTS OF GOOD PLACES IN TEXAS LIKE VECIL MARES BBQ IN TAYLOR TX ORLOUIS C. HENLEY`S IN EAST TEXAS OR RICK ScHMIDT`S IN LOCKHART OR STUBB`S IN AUSTIN,TX. AND THE LIST JUST KEEPS ON GOING
You are right about Vencil's (Taylor Cafe) in Taylor, Texas. I work only a block from Vencil's, and it definitly is the favorite of the locals in a town that boasts some of the best, and best-known pits in the country. The better-known Louis Mueller's and Mikeska's cant touch Vencil's quality and taste. But, contrary to your comments, the ribs are the best I've ever eaten - when they are good. The briskit, which recently won a "best in Texas" against all comers, can sometimes be tough. You are right-on about the sauce, but just add some of the "hot sauce" on the table to it and it is transformed. A couple of years ago USA Today named Vencil's Briskit plate one of the "top 20 meals in the world." I think the ambiance - and the beer - got to them.
Bob, Mikeska's is indescribably awful. I'm not sure if I posted my review on BC. Just rereading the review is traumatic. Louis Mueller's is not bad. Their sausage is quite good and their brisket is passable.
I may have caught Vencil's ribs on a bad day. I'll have to go back and give them another try. But I'm glad we agree on the brisket. It's truly awesome.
Dave
Dave, Don't know if they're still there, or if they're still good, but when I lived in San Antonio, Tom's Ribs was pretty good, as was the Countyline, out on the Loop.
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Texas vs. Tennessee: Who's got the better BBQ?